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Routes in Upper Peanuts

Ace Of Spades T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Advanced Rockcraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cardinal Richelieu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Cruise, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Downstairs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Gravity's Angel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Martyr's Arena T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sunrider S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Through and Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twilight Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Upstairs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 632 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The climb is difficult to find, but can be identified by the "elephant ear" flake near the bottom and the "cat claw" flake in the middle of the North Face of Upper Peanuts Wall. I finally tracked down this climb because it was the ONLY 5.8+ in Eldo that I had never climbed. In the book it gets a *, but I disagree. This review is meant to WARN you about this route, not to encourage you to go climb it.

My partner (a 5.10 climber in his own right) said that he would never lead the route and that he thought it would be a horror for an intermediate leader.

Protection

The pro is difficult in places and non-existent in others. Where it is available it is usually in questionable rock. This route could end the climbing career of anyone who is not "SOLID" at this grade of climbing.

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Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.9 R
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.9 R
This climb reminds me of everything I love about climbing...since it boasts absolutely none of it! That it was bestowed a star in the guidebook is purely mind-boggling. Perhaps the most positive thing about it is its random name, which inspirited me to embark on a webquest for its namesake.

lucidcafe.com/library/95sep…

The Cardinal is quoted as saying "If you give me six lines written by the most honest man, I will find something in them to hang him." We must assume that Rossiter is an honest man...with an imperfect memory of his climbing experience on Cardinal Richelieu.

BUT...The first 25 feet of this climb is actually really fun! Bummer. Jul 18, 2007
XOG
XOG  
My partner and I decided that "Cardinal Douchebag" might be a more appropriate name for this route when we did it sometime in the mid to early 90's. It's right up there with "Voodoo" (if you like doo-doo, do do Voodoo...") for starred routes that no one should go near... Jan 14, 2004
Cisco  
This route was fun but DIRTY definitely not deadly and not very serious but eye opening and enthralling...ahh that silly Cardinal. Jul 10, 2003
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
I was Tony's partner on this route. I would like to agree with, support, and reinforce what he said. You don't want to do this route! Vertical lichenous kitty litter, climbed with fingers spread wide to spread the load. Tony coined the term "cragmire" to describe this climb.

It was so bad that rather than pitching it out into the two guidebook pitches, Tony ran it to the top to get a safe belay. While seconding, I found that the rope had flipped around a flake requiring me to aid some moves under the "cat claw" flake. I placed a cam blind, hauled on the 'biner and stuck a hand jam in the same crack as the cam. The combined outward pressure of the cam and the jam moved the block. Jan 11, 2002