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Routes in Upper Peanuts

Ace Of Spades T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Advanced Rockcraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cardinal Richelieu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Cruise, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Downstairs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Gravity's Angel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Martyr's Arena T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sunrider S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Through and Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twilight Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Upstairs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, TR Fixed Hardware (7)
FA: J. & R. Rositer, K. Kuddels, D. Hare, 1987
Page Views: 2,702 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


Sunrider is on the upper tier of [Upper Peanuts] wall, on a pretty, Northwest-facing arete. The prominent line is visible from the trail to the crag.

Approach via the the first two pitches (done as one) of Heavy Weather or from one of several scrambles from other pitches.

Climb up the arete on small holds and heel/toe hooks around the corner, switching sides as desired to maintain the easiest line. The sequence-oriented crux is around the 2nd to 4th bolts. After the crux, the route gets easier as you move up. Some people report a height [dependent] difficulty.


Take 7 quickdraws or TR the route after climbing Heavy Weather, Upstairs dihedral, or The Cruise. You may also scramble up the downclimb to hang a toprope.

Of course, you may want a rack to get to either the base or the top...


Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Nice addition. I'd almost go with three stars for Sunrider given the excellent stone, superb position, and arch-typical, thoughtful Rossiter pro. Is there a better single pitch 5.11 in Eldo? The line loses very little by switching onto the right face about half way up, but it would have a kick to remain entirely on the arete. We tried to top-rope the arete at the transition point and it just did not work for us. Sunrider is a terrific route any way you look at it. Feb 25, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Great route, but not 11d. 11b perhaps. Feb 25, 2002
I can think of many many better 5.11 pitches in Eldorado. Still a nice pitch though. Feb 26, 2002
Nice line! Everything is fairly simple except for two or three 5.11 moves around the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A little height may help. I certainly had to reach a bit here. May 31, 2002
The approach scramble described by Rossiter was not that fun. The band you traverse on is pretty shattered and loose. But then, I'm I complete chicken. The approach via Heavy Weather looks better (in retrospect). Jun 18, 2003
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
Rossiter says to bring a #5 RP to place after the first bolt. You can also place a medium cam to back up the second bolt, which is a ways up there. I thought this climb was easy for Eldo 11d, but I am 6'4" and I was on top rope. Next time, I will have to lead it. Aug 9, 2003
I disagree: the bolting is fine, meaning you won't hit anything big if you fall in the easy-5.10 section towards the top. it's only really 1-2 slab-smear moves, not too far above the bolt, until you hit the big holds in the broken band, after which it's easy. unless you went to the left of the arete, about which I can't say anything. it's a little spicy, is all. Oct 9, 2003
Joe Collins
Joe Collins  
This would be a three star climb if it weren't so easy to climb the left side of the upper section of arete.It seems as if the upper 2 bolts (4th and 5th) were placed so as to force you to climb the right side of the arete, though the natural line of holds is on the left side.I took the left side of the arete in this section, left hand on positive crimps and right hand on the arete.The 4th bolt is in a bad location for this, and you are looking at a nasty swinging fall if you blow it. After climbing the route, I TR'd it by staying on the right side of the arete from the 4th bolt on, and thought it was pretty-hard 11+ with some cruxy moves well above the bolt.But following the easiest path on the left side of the arete for the entire climb, I thought it was similar in difficulty to 11b/c Eldo face routes with some 5.10 spice. Apr 28, 2004
Fun TR after doing heavy weather-upstairs dihedral. Just glad to make it to the anchors. Jun 18, 2005
The Sunrider bolts that were removed for the recent upgrade were tested at the CSU lab and all of them sheared at about 3800 lbs. This was a pretty good test result considering the appearance of the bolts and that they had been extracted with the Greenlee. More information on the test results will be available soon. Apr 16, 2014
Due to being a total wimp, I was quite happy to place a couple of pieces between the first two bolts to eliminate the possibility of a nasty ledge fall prior to clipping the second bolt. A small nut and a small TCU can be placed before the horizontal and hand-sized gear can be placed in the horizontal. Jun 23, 2014