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Routes in Upper Peanuts

Ace Of Spades T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Advanced Rockcraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cardinal Richelieu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Cruise, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Downstairs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Gravity's Angel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Martyr's Arena T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sunrider S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Through and Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twilight Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Upstairs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter, 1987
Page Views: 1,145 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Cruise... no, not exactly. I didn't cruise this route at all, in fact I got stumped on it for a few minutes and though it was hard for the 5.9 grade it was given.

This fine climb starts on the ledge as for Sunrider, but just a ways down and to the right of it. Start off of the ledge on the large north-facing wall to the right of the route Upstairs dihedral. Climb up to and through a crack that will take you around the arete to the right-hand side (west facing).

Climb the lower-angle rock on the right of the arete, through small holds. Pass a bolt and then climb up and right to a few placements for gear, then over left through to top of the Upstairs dihedral, to the bolt anchors above Sunrider.

The area around the bolt is insecure and the pro may be a distance from you at a few odd moves.

To descend, rap from the Sunrider anchors or top out and scramble and walk to the southwest to the rough trail, which leads back to the base.

Protection

Standard rack with a bolted crux. There are some insecure moves up some way above gear, so this is probably safe, but not a route to trifle with.

Photos

Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
 
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
 
At this point in time, staying on the face at the top requires serious bushwhacking; I wish I'd read the description here about moving left to the dihedral.

The bolt now looks new and inspires much confidence. Gear before it is hard to find, however. Jul 26, 2016
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.9+ PG13
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Another party was starting Heavy Weather, so we went up to do this and the chimney/OW corner. Worth doing once, but I wouldn't make a special effort to do this climb otherwise. A serious lead with marginal pro getting to the bolt, so not recommended if you aren't solid at 5.9 or 5.9+.

Bolt/hanger is currently rusted/questionable. Jul 1, 2015
Tony Kay
  5.10a PG13
Tony Kay  
  5.10a PG13
Did it today, bit bushy at the top but not a big problem. Wouldn't like to take the fall but you can stop and gather yourself for the moves beyond the bolt. Jul 16, 2009
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
I did this in '02 and got scratched up by the bushes after the crux. I looked at it today, and there are some very big, healthy bushes there now. Anyone done it lately? Looks like it'd be hard to get through.... May 18, 2009
TBlom  
We were going to try this one, but did the start and said "no way, Jose", ended up doing Upstairs Dihedral instead, which is much more direct to the anchors. Maybe not R or S rated, but it sure looks like a bad fall if you mess up. Jun 27, 2005
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
The rock you place gear in before the bolt is a little junky. I was hoping for a fat cam placement before the slab, but all I got was a #2 nut and a #2 RP. Luckly, you can step to the right a place gear w/ a 4ft runner to protect the moves to the bolt. A tricky #2 Camalot placement can be had after the crux, before you start the bushwack to the anchors.

This climb would be 2 stars, but bushes and pine needles at the top subtracts a star. Jun 20, 2005
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
A stiffy at 5.9 but mostly psychological. A locking biner at the bolt is reassuring. Mar 7, 2002