All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Peanuts Walls > Upper Peanuts

Advanced Rockcraft

Name: Advanced Rockcraft
Rating: 2.7

5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British

Routes in Upper Peanuts

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ace Of Spades T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Advanced Rockcraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Cardinal Richelieu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Cruise, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Downstairs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Gravity's Angel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Martyr's Arena T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Sunrider S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Through and Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Twilight Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Upstairs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Sport Fixed Hardware (2)
FA:	Fowler, Copeland, Horan, Rolofson, 1986
Page Views:	1,018 total · 4/month
Shared By:	Richard M. Wright on Feb 27, 2002
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Access Issue: Permit to access - required? Details

Per Tony B: according to this recently published map from OSMP, Upper Peanuts Wall is now in an HCA and requires a permit: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….

Description

Start directly below Sunrider to the right of a large flake augured into the ground. Climb out left in the large, left-facing dihedral. The awkward part-smear, part-stem crux comes at about 15 feet, just above the bolt. Two more pins leads into a largely unprotected run for the tree. This climb would be a tricky on-sight, and what we used to do was run up Gravity's Angel (on the left) and get the clips set above the bolt. I've always felt really scrunched up in the crux. There is not much in the corner for hands, not much on the face for hands either, and the position is cramped. Nonetheless, this is a crafty sequence to solve, probably classic. The original hideous anchor (a pin and a wire) can be avoided if you are willing to run up to the tree, and this is highly recommended.

While I probably will not get any support for this idea, slapping in a bolt 15 feet below the tree would turn Advanced Rockcraft into the classic that it deserves to be.