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Routes in Upper Peanuts

Ace Of Spades T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Advanced Rockcraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cardinal Richelieu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Cruise, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Downstairs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Gravity's Angel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Martyr's Arena T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sunrider S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Through and Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twilight Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Upstairs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Fowler, Copeland, Horan, Rolofson, 1986
Page Views: 217 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Feb 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Start directly below Sunrider to the right of a large flake augured into the ground. Climb out left in the large, left-facing dihedral. The awkward part-smear, part-stem crux comes at about 15 feet, just above the bolt. Two more pins leads into a largely unprotected run for the tree. This climb would be a tricky on-sight, and what we used to do was run up Gravity's Angel (on the left) and get the clips set above the bolt. I've always felt really scrunched up in the crux. There is not much in the corner for hands, not much on the face for hands either, and the position is cramped. Nonetheless, this is a crafty sequence to solve, probably classic. The original hideous anchor (a pin and a wire) can be avoided if you are willing to run up to the tree, and this is highly recommended.

While I probably will not get any support for this idea, slapping in a bolt 15 feet below the tree would turn Advanced Rockcraft into the classic that it deserves to be.

Protection

Half a dozen draws, a heavy sack, and a rope.

Photos

Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
I lead this route on that bashie, many years ago, and remember thinking, don't fall on that thing. Aug 10, 2016
Spud  
That rusty, fixed wire popped on me yesterday! I was top roping this from the Gravity's Angel anchor, slipped and fell, and the wire itself broke off the nut! This thing is hard! Aug 17, 2015
The fixed wire is rusty, and if this broke, you would be bummed. No other options. May 23, 2013
Rob DeZonia  
 
I love this route. It is what Eldo is all about. I led this when it had that tiny, nail-sized bolt. I had worked it on rope solo, and when I finally got a partner up there, I looked like a bad ass. The truth is, this route handed me my ass for a while. It felt like Street Car Named Desire in Joshua Tree to me. I'm psyched the bolt's been replaced. The corner's crux is ruthless. It is very hard for 12b. The dangerous part is pulling out of the upper 5.10 corner. Sep 6, 2011
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
S-
Thanks for making the effort to upgrade the hardware. Aug 6, 2010
Stefan Griebel
Boulder, Colorado
 
Stefan Griebel   Boulder, Colorado
 
The single bolt at the crux has been replaced with a 5-piece Rawl 3/8" bolt. Thanks to ACE for the necessary hardware and tools. The pin below, bashie (!?!) above, and pin higher are all still in place.

A yellow Alien can back up the higher pin, and a pretty darn good #5 BD Micro Stopper (Swedge) protects the upper 5.10 runout. May 27, 2010
Since it is all fixed, why not upgrade the whole route? Feb 28, 2002