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Routes in Upper Peanuts

Ace Of Spades T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Advanced Rockcraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cardinal Richelieu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Cruise, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Downstairs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Gravity's Angel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Martyr's Arena T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sunrider S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Through and Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twilight Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Upstairs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: George Bracksieck, Jay Mather, Dale Lindhart
Page Views: 502 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tombo on May 8, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the left-facing dihedral to the right of Heavy Weather. Climb the obtuse dihedral using many large face holds straight up to a flake which you climb through on the right side. Finish through the rotten yellow band with a right-rising hand crack.

Currently the route is lichen covered and climbs through a typical Peanuts loose rock bands. Would be an OK climb if it saw more activity. My one star rating reflects what it could be, if climbed more and cleaned up.

Location

If not continuing up, either rap from tree at the top of the pitch or traverse off right (lots of loose rock.)

Protection

SR.

Photos

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Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
Portland, OR
  5.7
Joe "Big Boi" Osterman   Portland, OR
  5.7
I gave this route a 5.7 rating, because I actually climbed the start of Heavy Weather and bypassed the 5.9 dihedral by going right into the squeeze section formed by the flake. I would not recommend doing this variation as the rope drag was terrible. I would, however, give the beginning of Heavy Weather 2.5 stars! Jul 1, 2013