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Routes in Upper Peanuts
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Ace Of Spades T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Advanced Rockcraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cardinal Richelieu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Cruise, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Downstairs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Gravity's Angel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Martyr's Arena T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Sunrider S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Through and Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twilight Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Upstairs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Joseph Crotty |
| Page Views: | 2,305 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Joseph Crotty on Aug 19, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: Permit to access - required?
Details
Per Tony B: according to this recently published map from OSMP, Upper Peanuts Wall is now in an HCA and requires a permit: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Description
Scenic views, mental stamina and a bold crux. If you're looking for spicy, Bruce Lee, ground up action or head point nirvana, welcome to the arena. In general, the route climbs directly up with a few slight jogs left and right until reaching the mini-ledge post crux where the preferred finish moves a bit right.
Start near a block at head height on the ramp and climb up and slightly left - .10+. Two suspect micro nuts may ease the jitters but will probably not keep you off the deck.
A few bomber nuts and some chill climbing put you on a right-angling ramp (AKA - leg eater). Tip toe through the .11- directly above. Sink two bomber cams in a made to order, tight, hand-sized angling mail box slot. Feel free to hum a dirge here if you lack a large ape index for the looming crux.
youtu.be/Cj7q-uxDx9o
Progressively harder moves on small dish like half digit crimps culminate in a balance reach or throw to a mini-ledge. Place good gear and climb right a bit and up for the final run out.
FA done head point style over four days August 2012. All gear placed on lead. Major thanks to Alex Blum, Greg Miller, Rob Kepley, Steve Annecone, and Steve Levin for their support. Your helping hands made a dream come true!
This was formerly known as Northwest Face TR by Richard and Joyce Rossiter 1987.
I can't recall how many walks down West Ridge were spent gawking at this route the last five years. It held such sheer beauty from afar, but I also knew from recent new route forays on the Peanuts formation it probably harbored some nasty lichen and friable crimpers.
Two weekends ago I found myself partner-less due to no fault of my own. I wasn't getting any younger or stronger and past attempts to land a partner for this potential ground-up death route ended in blank stares that unequivocally said "no." I thought "heck, let's get on with it and get in the game." Thanks be to God I head pointed it. After burning through a beefy brush scrubbing it partially clean on the first day, I found myself breaking critical supposed "good" holds a few days later on mini traxion. I would have grounded out for certain ground up. It cleaned up wonderfully and has great climbing, tactics, and technique that are signature Eldo.
Start near a block at head height on the ramp and climb up and slightly left - .10+. Two suspect micro nuts may ease the jitters but will probably not keep you off the deck.
A few bomber nuts and some chill climbing put you on a right-angling ramp (AKA - leg eater). Tip toe through the .11- directly above. Sink two bomber cams in a made to order, tight, hand-sized angling mail box slot. Feel free to hum a dirge here if you lack a large ape index for the looming crux.
youtu.be/Cj7q-uxDx9o
Progressively harder moves on small dish like half digit crimps culminate in a balance reach or throw to a mini-ledge. Place good gear and climb right a bit and up for the final run out.
FA done head point style over four days August 2012. All gear placed on lead. Major thanks to Alex Blum, Greg Miller, Rob Kepley, Steve Annecone, and Steve Levin for their support. Your helping hands made a dream come true!
This was formerly known as Northwest Face TR by Richard and Joyce Rossiter 1987.
I can't recall how many walks down West Ridge were spent gawking at this route the last five years. It held such sheer beauty from afar, but I also knew from recent new route forays on the Peanuts formation it probably harbored some nasty lichen and friable crimpers.
Two weekends ago I found myself partner-less due to no fault of my own. I wasn't getting any younger or stronger and past attempts to land a partner for this potential ground-up death route ended in blank stares that unequivocally said "no." I thought "heck, let's get on with it and get in the game." Thanks be to God I head pointed it. After burning through a beefy brush scrubbing it partially clean on the first day, I found myself breaking critical supposed "good" holds a few days later on mini traxion. I would have grounded out for certain ground up. It cleaned up wonderfully and has great climbing, tactics, and technique that are signature Eldo.
Location
On Upper Peanuts between Heavy Weather and Sunrider. Approach as for Sunrider. From the start of Sunrider, walk about half way down the exposed ramp (i.e., 25'). Locate a block at head height which is the major weakness. Descend by rappelling from the anchors on Sunrider.
Protection
SR with a good selection of small stoppers. Some micro nuts if you're into illusions.
Following is for TR setup. From the base of Sunrider, you can scramble slightly South and then East to the summit ridge and descend to the Sunrider anchor. Using about 30' of rope, it's possible to rig an anchor off a tree directly above the line. By using one of the bolts on the Sunrider anchor, you can mitigate the likelihood of the anchor point sliding down the angled lip.
Following is for TR setup. From the base of Sunrider, you can scramble slightly South and then East to the summit ridge and descend to the Sunrider anchor. Using about 30' of rope, it's possible to rig an anchor off a tree directly above the line. By using one of the bolts on the Sunrider anchor, you can mitigate the likelihood of the anchor point sliding down the angled lip.
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