Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Joseph Crotty
Page Views: 1,444 total · 19/month
Shared By: Joseph Crotty on Aug 19, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Scenic views, mental stamina and a bold crux. If you're looking for spicy, Bruce Lee, ground up action or head point nirvana, welcome to the arena. In general, the route climbs directly up with a few slight jogs left and right until reaching the mini-ledge post crux where the preferred finish moves a bit right.

Start near a block at head height on the ramp and climb up and slightly left - .10+. Two suspect micro nuts may ease the jitters but will probably not keep you off the deck.

A few bomber nuts and some chill climbing put you on a right-angling ramp (AKA - leg eater). Tip toe through the .11- directly above. Sink two bomber cams in a made to order, tight, hand-sized angling mail box slot. Feel free to hum a dirge here if you lack a large ape index for the looming crux.

youtu.be/Cj7q-uxDx9o

Progressively harder moves on small dish like half digit crimps culminate in a balance reach or throw to a mini-ledge. Place good gear and climb right a bit and up for the final run out.

FA done head point style over four days August 2012. All gear placed on lead. Major thanks to Alex Blum, Greg Miller, Rob Kepley, Steve Annecone, and Steve Levin for their support. Your helping hands made a dream come true!

This was formerly known as Northwest Face TR by Richard and Joyce Rossiter 1987.

I can't recall how many walks down West Ridge were spent gawking at this route the last five years. It held such sheer beauty from afar, but I also knew from recent new route forays on the Peanuts formation it probably harbored some nasty lichen and friable crimpers.

Two weekends ago I found myself partner-less due to no fault of my own. I wasn't getting any younger or stronger and past attempts to land a partner for this potential ground-up death route ended in blank stares that unequivocally said "no." I thought "heck, let's get on with it and get in the game." Thanks be to God I head pointed it. After burning through a beefy brush scrubbing it partially clean on the first day, I found myself breaking critical supposed "good" holds a few days later on mini traxion. I would have grounded out for certain ground up. It cleaned up wonderfully and has great climbing, tactics, and technique that are signature Eldo.

Location

On Upper Peanuts between Heavy Weather and Sunrider. Approach as for Sunrider. From the start of Sunrider, walk about half way down the exposed ramp (i.e., 25'). Locate a block at head height which is the major weakness. Descend by rappelling from the anchors on Sunrider.

Protection

SR with a good selection of small stoppers. Some micro nuts if you're into illusions.

Following is for TR setup. From the base of Sunrider, you can scramble slightly South and then East to the summit ridge and descend to the Sunrider anchor. Using about 30' of rope, it's possible to rig an anchor off a tree directly above the line. By using one of the bolts on the Sunrider anchor, you can mitigate the likelihood of the anchor point sliding down the angled lip.

Photos

kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
Nice job, Joe. Way to make a dream come true.

"Some micro nuts if you're into illusions", can I dislike that comment. Aug 20, 2012
Jamie Re
Providence, RI
Jamie Re   Providence, RI
Wow, man, well done. Aug 28, 2012