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Routes in Upper Peanuts
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Ace Of Spades T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Advanced Rockcraft S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cardinal Richelieu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Cruise, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Downstairs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Gravity's Angel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Martyr's Arena T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Sunrider S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Through and Through T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twilight Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Upstairs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter |
| Page Views: | 15,226 total · 57/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Shupp on Mar 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: Permit to access - required?
Details
Per Tony B: according to this recently published map from OSMP, Upper Peanuts Wall is now in an HCA and requires a permit: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Description
This route is located on Upper Peanuts Wall. P1 begins on a pedastal below a big, cantelope-shaped flake that is sticking out perpendicular to the main wall. Do not confuse this with another similar feature higher and up to the right.
P1 climbs a lower angle 5.7 crack system up to a 5.9 dihedral created by the huge, cantelope flake. The 5.9 section is short and offers reasonable protection. Finish the pitch by moving left, and slightly down to a big ledge at a large tree (do not go up and right to another large tree). Be careful here not to knock off any of the loose rock sitting on the ledge.
P2 is the crux of the climb. Continue upward through balancy moves over a "flip-flop" dihedral (5.9) and then traverse up a ramp toward the left.
P3 takes on a super nice 5.8 fist crack of variable width and gains a huge ramp. P2 and P3 can be combined with a 60m rope.
P4 is short, but fun. Traverse left to a blocky cave and follow an obvious crack about 15 - 20 feet to the top. You can probably combine P3 and P4 with minimal rope drag as well.
Per Carl Sampurna: an alternative P4 is to head straight up towards a flaring flake (#3 and #4 sew up the moves around this flake). Directly above this flake is the bolted rap anchor.
Descent: as of 2018, there is now a set of three rap anchors, making the descent much faster and easier. Be careful of knocking rocks off on parties below! Find the first set of anchors on the slab to the east of the summit, on the north edge. The bolts are on the TOP of the rock surface, with long chains that go over the edge. You may have to go slightly down the slab to get to them. Find the next two stations on large ledges, working to the climber's left of the prior station.
P1 climbs a lower angle 5.7 crack system up to a 5.9 dihedral created by the huge, cantelope flake. The 5.9 section is short and offers reasonable protection. Finish the pitch by moving left, and slightly down to a big ledge at a large tree (do not go up and right to another large tree). Be careful here not to knock off any of the loose rock sitting on the ledge.
P2 is the crux of the climb. Continue upward through balancy moves over a "flip-flop" dihedral (5.9) and then traverse up a ramp toward the left.
P3 takes on a super nice 5.8 fist crack of variable width and gains a huge ramp. P2 and P3 can be combined with a 60m rope.
P4 is short, but fun. Traverse left to a blocky cave and follow an obvious crack about 15 - 20 feet to the top. You can probably combine P3 and P4 with minimal rope drag as well.
Per Carl Sampurna: an alternative P4 is to head straight up towards a flaring flake (#3 and #4 sew up the moves around this flake). Directly above this flake is the bolted rap anchor.
Descent: as of 2018, there is now a set of three rap anchors, making the descent much faster and easier. Be careful of knocking rocks off on parties below! Find the first set of anchors on the slab to the east of the summit, on the north edge. The bolts are on the TOP of the rock surface, with long chains that go over the edge. You may have to go slightly down the slab to get to them. Find the next two stations on large ledges, working to the climber's left of the prior station.
Photos
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