Avg: 3 from 235 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||13,182 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Shupp on Mar 31, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
P1 climbs a lower angle 5.7 crack system up to a 5.9 dihedral created by the huge, cantelope flake. The 5.9 section is short and offers reasonable protection. Finish the pitch by moving left, and slightly down to a big ledge at a large tree (do not go up and right to another large tree). Be careful here not to knock off any of the loose rock sitting on the ledge.
P2 is the crux of the climb. Continue upward through balancy moves over a "flip-flop" dihedral (5.9) and then traverse up a ramp toward the left.
P3 takes on a super nice 5.8 fist crack of variable width and gains a huge ramp. P2 and P3 can be combined with a 60m rope.
P4 is short, but fun. Traverse left to a blocky cave and follow an obvious crack about 15 - 20 feet to the top. You can probably combine P3 and P4 with minimal rope drag as well.
Per Carl Schaefer: an alternative P4 is to head straight up towards a flaring flake (#3 and #4 sew up the moves around this flake). Directly above this flake is the bolted rap anchor.
Descent: as of 2018, there is now a set of three rap anchors, making the descent much faster and easier. Be careful of knocking rocks off on parties below! Find the first set of anchors on the slab to the east of the summit, on the north edge. The bolts are on the TOP of the rock surface, with long chains that go over the edge. You may have to go slightly down the slab to get to them. Find the next two stations on large ledges, working to the climber's left of the prior station.