For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Dome

Black Plague T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cozy Dyno T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Cozy Overhang T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cozyhang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cozyhang 10a Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cozyhang Alt. Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cozyhang Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Dome Girdle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
E of East Slab East T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, Far Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, Farthest Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Slab East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East of the Sun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evening Stroll T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Familiar Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Gorilla's Delight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Groove T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Left Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Owl Direct, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Owl, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pinnacle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prelude to King Kong T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Signs Of Life T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Squeeze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Umph Slot, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Being very close to Boulder and south-facing make this a popular rock. It is a good crag for winter days. It's a huge slab, with lots of cuts and cracks to run up. No top-roping or sport climbs are here, but then many fun, multi-pitch climbs are great for beginner leaders. Access off the top is via scrambling down either the east or west.

L->R the starts are:

A. Evening Stroll, 10+ R, 2p, 140', gear.
B. Prelude to King Kong, 9, 1p, 110', gear.
C. Black Plague, 10+ R, 1p, 50', gear.
D. Pinnacle, 10- or 10+, 1p, 70', gear.
E. Left Edge, 7, 2p, 200', gear.
F. Super Squeeze, 11-, 2p, 200', gear.
G. Umph Slot, 10+, 2p, 200', gear.
H. The Owl, 7, 2-3p, 200', gear.
I1. The Owl Direct , 10 PG-13, 2p, gear.
I2. Direct, 10+ R, 2p, 200', gear.
J. Cozyhang, 7+, 2-3p, 200', gear.
K. East of the Sun, 7, 2p, 200', gear.
L. East Slab, 6, 1-2p, 200', gear.
M. East Slab East, 6, 1-2p, 200', gear
N. E of East Slab East, 7, 1p, gear.
O. East Face, Far Right, 7, 1p, 70', gear.
P. East Face, Farthest Right, 7, 1p, 100', gear.

These routes start above the ground:

AA. Gorilla's 105760317Delight, 9, 1p, 100', gear.
BB. Familiar Face?, 10 R, 1p, gear.
CC. Cozy Overhang, 10, 1p, gear.
DD. Signs Of Life, 10, 1p, 150', gear.
EE. Groove?, 10+, 1p, gear.
FF. Pussycat?, 10, 1p, gear.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

0.5 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon is a straightaway with huge turnoffs on both side of the road. Park and walk north across the footbridge. Turn right and follow the new trail up to the aqueduct. Go left to the trail heading up to the base of the Dome.

28 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Dome Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 426
East Slab
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 83
East Slab East
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 117
East of the Sun
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 41
E of East Slab East
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
East Face, Farthest Right
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 300
The Owl
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 218
Cozyhang
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 71
Prelude to King Kong
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 61
Gorilla's Delight
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
Cozyhang Out
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 41
Cozyhang 10a Variation
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Cozyhang Alt. Finish
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 3
The Owl Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 37
The Umph Slot
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 16
Super Squeeze
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Slab
 426
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
East Slab East
 83
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
East of the Sun
 117
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
E of East Slab East
 41
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
East Face, Farthest Right
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Owl
 300
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Cozyhang
 218
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Prelude to King Kong
 71
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Gorilla's Delight
 61
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Cozyhang Out
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Cozyhang 10a Variation
 41
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cozyhang Alt. Finish
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Owl Direct
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
The Umph Slot
 37
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Super Squeeze
 16
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Dome »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
JVonD
Longmont, CO
JVonD   Longmont, CO
I can't believe it.. So a couple months ago I was with a small party climbing the right face. My buddy Ed and I get to the tree and I decided to set up a rappel with a long cordelette line (so everyone climbing that day could use it.) We rapp down and start on another climb. I saw some guys climbing up and I asked them not to take my rapp off the top. He was looking at me funny. So we top out another climb and someone stole my frickin rapp line. Can you believe this. WHATS NEXT???Ron Kauk's boots? (Moral of story, Look out for Dumb-Ass thieves.) Nov 11, 2001
Paul G  
At the top of the gully between Elephant Buttress and the Dome there's a 20 foot granite cliff that can be top roped. Might be good for warming up a beginner or practicing belays before heading doing multi pitch nearby. Sep 30, 2002
Climber Scott Hamilton died Saturday while soloing on the Dome. dailycamera.com/bdc/county_… Oct 29, 2002
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
I don't know about dumb ass thieves JV... I was there this afternoon and an older gentleman found a flat/triangular topped winter hat. It was dark, maybe black. He asked if it was mine and I said no. I forgot to get it from him to post the find here. My sincerest apologies whomever it belongs to. Perhaps it is still there. Worth the check...~WM Nov 23, 2002
Shawn Shannon
Everett, WA
Shawn Shannon   Everett, WA
A little hope for anyone thinking people are getting worse.... I dropped three biners off the belay ledge on Cozyhang and got a large hex stuck in a crack that my partner couldn't remove. We finished and went up Owl. I met a climber at the shared belay with Cozyhang and he offered me our hex that he had already removed. He also noticed the biners I was using and offered the one he found on the hillside that matched mine... I figured they were sacrifices to the rock gods, but I saved some money thanks to some honest climbers. Jan 12, 2003
A carabiner that has been dropped like that should be thrown out. Although you can't be certain without x-ray analysis, the carabiner may have gotten fractured from the impact. Better to replace and be out 5 bucks. Jan 13, 2003
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
That microfracture theory has been disproved.

(I just like to point this out whenever I hear it spread in hopes of quashing it) Jun 29, 2007
Bob Carmichael
Boulder
Bob Carmichael   Boulder
Hi:

I left HALF my rack of DMM wiregate quick draws at the Dome last Monday.
If you my chance found them please notifiy me at
bcarmic@earthlink.net

These were really nice draws and I know it is my mistake for having left them but good karma says return to user...

thanks

BC Aug 19, 2007
Bob Carmichael
Boulder
Bob Carmichael   Boulder
I left this stuff at the base of the Cozyhang. I know it's dumb but if someone is wondering who to return the DMM wire gate biners and draws to

bcarmic@earthlink.net

Gracias

BC Aug 19, 2007
What if you then cannot get your knot out of the crack? Jun 27, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
I'll probably start cutting off fingers, jamming them like chockstones, untie, run the rope behind them, and retie.

But as you can see this decreases the amount of climbing I can do in my life considerably. Jun 27, 2009
D. Shaw  
We did this late Sept, 2009. I have done it maybe 10 times, starting 25 years ago, but hadn't done it in 8 years. I on-sighted a 10c sport route a few days ago without difficulty, and I have to say, this route is more interesting and wild than the 10c. Lots of pins are gone now, that used to help protect it, and the ones that are there don't look reliable to me. The polish has increased substantially, making the traverse up to the first belay, and just after, seem harder now. In honor of the old guard who probably did this route in boots with nails, I'll leave the rating alone, but a beginning 5.7 leader (is there any such thing anymore?) who tried to on-sight this puppy would probably call for a rescue chopper! Sep 30, 2009
Coury Ditch
Boulder, Colorado
Coury Ditch   Boulder, Colorado
Left my helmet here on MLK day (beginning of this week), either at the top or over by the start of the owl. Beers for its captor! It's a red Mammut.

Email is: Cmditch at gmail dot com.

Thanks! Jan 25, 2014
Kellon Spencer
Tempe, Arizona
Kellon Spencer   Tempe, Arizona
FOUND**
Hey guys, just topped out on a climb at The Dome and found a very nice BD cam abandoned ...I mean really nice. Shoot me a message with a description of the size and color of the tape you labeled it with, and I'll be happy to return it to you. Mar 27, 2017

More About The Dome

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (19)

All Photos Within The Dome (94)

Most Popular · Newest · Random