Type: Trad, TR, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches
FA: Duncan Ferguson and Jimmy Hoffman, 1970
Page Views: 1,746 total · 9/month
Shared By: James Beissel on Mar 12, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route might feel a little weird or contrived because of its location, but it features some interesting climbing.

This route was given a "Very Serious" rating in the Rossiter guidebook however I felt this was more like a "Serious". If one were to take a poorly timed or awkward fall on the slab there is potential for injury, but it is not what I would classify as a death route.

P1 - Begin by climbing some juggy rock and a right leaning crack to gain a horizontal gash below a slab. Friction straight up the slab past a chopped 1/4" bolt stud and a small pocket that you can place a hook in for protection. Make a couple more moves, reach a good hold, and continue up the shoulder on easier ground to belay. 60'

P2 - Traverse down and right from the belay and work tenuous smears and underclings across the flake to gain a narrowing crack just left of the corner. Climb the crack more or less directly to the top. 80'

Location Suggest change

This is the leftmost route on The Dome, located just left of the west descent gully. There is a pine tree near the base.

Protection Suggest change

Cams from blue Alien to #3 Camalot. A Leeper Logan Hook (wide) or equivalant. Duct Tape.

Photos

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