Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,629 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 14, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

This route is being posted under an assumed name. In fact, I am certain it has been climbed before, as there were some "signs of life" along the way, not to mention the mere probabilistic notion. I found a trace of chalk up under a big undercling at the bottom of the first overhang. I can not find any prior reference to its existence, so I am listing it as a 'new route' to make it easy to 'find' and publish in guidebook revisions.

To climb this route, head up to the Dome and right, as for Cozyhang. Climb up the face to the left of the East Slab and perhaps 1-2 meters right of the start of Cozyhang, passing a easy but runout slab to catch a thin fingercrack below the center of a bulging set of small, rounded, black grooves. Place gear in the fingercrack and head up into the roofs, underclinging and reaching upwards to hidden jugs for progress. A ledge is found after the roofs, but instead of belaying here, head up and just slightly left to intercept the small but secure pockets and edges on "East of the Sun" to complete on a great face line. Continue on this past 2 diagonal cracks (#1 Camalot in one of them) and to the summit finish as for East Of The Sun.

This is a 2* route that an advanced leader can protect very well. It may require the power to hang out in the crux to place said gear, and so it is not recommended for aspiring 5.9 leaders.

Protection

A standard rack of stoppers and cams. Small tricams could be used.

Photos