Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,890 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||James Beissel on Mar 12, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
The Dome Girdle is a great tour of some of the best climbing The Dome has to offer and is a fun diversion after you've climbed everything else. The crux comes early and the pitches shared with Evening Stroll make it both technically challenging and a bit spicy.
At an area like The Dome with its proximity to Boulder and 50+ years of climbing history chances are this has been done, most likely by one of those crusty old dudes we see in Eldo quietly soloing 5.9 in high tops and tube socks.
Regardless, here is the Dome Girdle as climbed by Greg Albrechtsen and myself 3-11-2008:
P1: Climb the first pitch of Evening Stroll. 5.10a S 60'
P2: Climb the crux traverse of the second pitch of Evening Stroll to the descent gully dihedral. Traverse right to a belay on the shoulder near Left Edge staying above the ledge in the descent gully. 5.10d 100'
P3: Traverse below Gorilla's Delight and the A-Frame roof of Super Squeeze and build a belay somewhere below The Umph Slot, 5.7 100'
P4: Traverse right and up to make the move on chickenheads around the arete as for The Owl and continue up to where it is possible to step right from the handcrack of The Owl to the left edge of the Cozyhang Roof. Traverse the Cozyhang Roof from left to right and belay at the base of the East Chimney. 5.7 120'
P5: Traverse up and right across the East Slab, East Slabs East, etc. and finish on the rightmost exit crack. Continue to the summit. 5.7 120'
It would certainly be possible to do this in fewer pitches. We kept the pitches short to keep the rope drag down around the many corners and to make it easier to communicate.
For partial credit, skip the first two pitches and instead begin on Left Edge to make this a moderate outing at 5.7.
For (hopefully) obvious reasons, doing a girdle traverse on a busy day would be lame.