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Routes in The Dome

Black Plague T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cozy Dyno T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Cozy Overhang T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cozyhang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cozyhang 10a Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cozyhang Alt. Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cozyhang Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Dome Girdle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
E of East Slab East T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, Far Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, Farthest Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Slab East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East of the Sun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evening Stroll T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Familiar Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Gorilla's Delight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Groove T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Left Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Owl Direct, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Owl, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pinnacle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prelude to King Kong T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Signs Of Life T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Squeeze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Umph Slot, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,368 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mike Robinson on Jun 7, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The gear is great on this variation. The crux is pulling around the bulge and onto the face.

Location

Instead of going up to the 7+ second pitch A-frame, just stick to the obvious hand crack that is toward the top of the dihedral. Pull around right via hand jams, over the bulge on smeared feet and reach out right to a side pull and a crystal finger jug on the face.

Protection

Wild Country cams size 1-2. Have 3 of them to protect the hand crack that follows just under the highest part of the Cozyhang/Umph Slot dihedral.

Photos

Tom T  
Isn't this the same route as Cozy Overhang? It seems like a double entry to me...but I could be wrong. Jun 22, 2008
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
 
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
 
No, not a double entry at all. This pitch takes a direct line out the roof above Owl Ledge. Nov 16, 2008
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10a
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble  
  5.10a
Hard for a 10a? maybe? I could not figure it out for the life of me. I guess I just suck at hand jamming. Apr 28, 2009
S. F. Pitman
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
S. F. Pitman   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
This seemed harder than 10a to me. I'm pretty sure that the new guidebook lists this as 10d, but I might be reading it wrong. I am very short (5'6"), and had to use a combination of hand jamming, dyno, and no feet to make it through the crux (which protects very well). The lack of feet made it feel like 10+ to me. Again, I'm short so this may not be true for everyone. Mar 1, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10a
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble  
  5.10a
Finally got this today. You definitely need to be able to jam if you want to make it. I can't comment on the grade. Apr 24, 2010
It's 5 fun. May 9, 2011
Dragin
  5.10a
Dragin  
  5.10a
I've done this one a couple times...the key is getting your feet in the same diagonal crack you are jamming - I was almost horizontal through the whole crux, but it really didn't seem to difficult, just pumpy. Jun 17, 2011
Mike Robinson
Moab, UT
 
Mike Robinson   Moab, UT
 
I am 5'3" so the route is not height dependent.... Jul 2, 2011
Kaz Hatfield
Firestone
Kaz Hatfield   Firestone
This is the same route as Cozyhang Direct Finish (or Alt. Finish) per the Guidebook. With tape on my hands, my hands kept slipping and felt like 10c/d. With a brand new pair of jammies, it seemed tough and exhilarating, but I never got pumped. Jammies made it feel more like 10a with smears for feet during the crux. Jul 12, 2018

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