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Cozyhang 10a Variation

5.10a, Trad, 40 ft,  Avg: 2.6 from 42 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Dome
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The gear is great on this variation. The crux is pulling around the bulge and onto the face.

Location

Instead of going up to the 7+ second pitch A-frame, just stick to the obvious hand crack that is toward the top of the dihedral. Pull around right via hand jams, over the bulge on smeared feet and reach out right to a side pull and a crystal finger jug on the face.

Protection

Wild Country cams size 1-2. Have 3 of them to protect the hand crack that follows just under the highest part of the Cozyhang/Umph Slot dihedral.

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The route.
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The route.
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Isn't this the same route as Cozy Overhang? It seems like a double entry to me...but I could be wrong. Jun 22, 2008
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] No, not a double entry at all. This pitch takes a direct line out the roof above Owl Ledge. Nov 16, 2008
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Hard for a 10a? maybe? I could not figure it out for the life of me. I guess I just suck at hand jamming. Apr 28, 2009
S. F. Pitman
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This seemed harder than 10a to me. I'm pretty sure that the new guidebook lists this as 10d, but I might be reading it wrong. I am very short (5'6"), and had to use a combination of hand jamming, dyno, and no feet to make it through the crux (which protects very well). The lack of feet made it feel like 10+ to me. Again, I'm short so this may not be true for everyone. Mar 1, 2010
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Finally got this today. You definitely need to be able to jam if you want to make it. I can't comment on the grade. Apr 24, 2010
[Hide Comment] It's 5 fun. May 9, 2011
Dragin
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I've done this one a couple times...the key is getting your feet in the same diagonal crack you are jamming - I was almost horizontal through the whole crux, but it really didn't seem to difficult, just pumpy. Jun 17, 2011
Mike Robinson
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I am 5'3" so the route is not height dependent.... Jul 2, 2011
Kaz Hatfield
Firestone
[Hide Comment] This is the same route as Cozyhang Direct Finish (or Alt. Finish) per the Guidebook. With tape on my hands, my hands kept slipping and felt like 10c/d. With a brand new pair of jammies, it seemed tough and exhilarating, but I never got pumped. Jammies made it feel more like 10a with smears for feet during the crux. Jul 12, 2018