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Routes in The Dome

Black Plague T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cozy Dyno T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Cozy Overhang T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cozyhang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cozyhang 10a Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cozyhang Alt. Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cozyhang Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Dome Girdle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
E of East Slab East T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, Far Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face, Farthest Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Slab East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East of the Sun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evening Stroll T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Familiar Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Gorilla's Delight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Groove T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Left Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Owl Direct , The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Owl, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pinnacle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prelude to King Kong T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Signs Of Life T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Squeeze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Umph Slot, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Rob Candelaria, 1975.
Page Views: 1,157 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 12, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start below a 10'-high pointed pinnacle of rock at the same place where the route Left Edge begins.This is about 20' right of Prelude to King Kong and is directly below the right side of the Super Squeeze alcove and the start of The Umph Slot.

The route climbs a finger, hand, and fist crack just right of the pinnacle.

Climb up to the right of the pinnacle, then work up the finger crack while stemming as high as possible off the pinnacle. Step right to the crack and make difficult moves as the crack widens to hand and fist size.

Above, you have several choices for a belay:

1. Continue straight up and belay and the start of The Umph Slot.

2. Continue up and left and climb a slab to the belay on Super Squeeze.

3. Traverse left and belay at the start of Gorilla's Delight.

Continue with any of these routes, or rap 80' from the anchor on Super Squeeze.

If you chose option #3 for the belay, you can also finish on Left Edge.

It may also be possible to exit right and continue on The Owl.

Rossiter's guidebook also shows a 10a variation using a crack left of the finger crack.

Worthwhile if you're looking for a short, well-protected harder start to any of the above routes.

Protection

Small wired nuts to #3 Camalot. Aliens (green to orange) were very useful.

Photos

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Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10c
Perhaps I climbed this "wrong", but I stepped off the pinnacle and used a twin crack system to reach a fist crack. Upon reaching the fist crack, this is where I thought the crux moves were but in no way were they 11a moves. Perhaps a single move of 5.10 climbing was encountered while pulling out of the fist crack. Not really worth the time to lead but good enough just to squeeze in another route while cragging off the anchors below Super Squeeze. Nov 25, 2012
Dane Casterson
Boulder
Dane Casterson   Boulder
Make sure you nail the initial moves and place a lot of pro if you are shaky at all at this grade. I busted off the first moves, and I almost left my chin on a sharp ledge that you start on by the pillar. Felt tough. Jun 4, 2007