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Routes in A. East Wall

African Herbsman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Burning Bush, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Catch That Train T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dig Your Own Hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Irie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trenchtown S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zion Train S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Josh Pollock and Steve Grigel
Page Views: 1,474 total, 44/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Mar 24, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


82 Opinions

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Description

This route is not very difficult, but it is fun. The start is fairly slabby and, it is a little steeper near its end. The most difficult move is near the middle, but there are good holds throughout the climb. It looks like the first ascenders cleaned off a lot of lichen. The climb is fairly clean and angles to the left for the 1st three quarters or so.

Location

This is the furthest left (east) route on the wall. Use the anchor to descend. This route is to the left of a large pine tree, and there is a gully in front of the route.

Protection

Six bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Watch out for the loose right hanger on the anchor at the top of Irie. It's not bad yet, but it is getting loose as of dusk on 7/7/17. Jul 7, 2017
Cara Hubbell
Arvada, CO
  5.7
Cara Hubbell   Arvada, CO
  5.7
This is the most fun 5.7 I think I have ever climbed! The moves are interesting and varied, but the holds are great. Bolt lengths are short, so it's super safe, and I think this route would make a great first lead for a 5.7 climber. Sep 12, 2016
Paul Deger
Colorado
 
Paul Deger   Colorado
 
Fun, short route in the shade. Lichen has been well cleaned if you stay along bolt line. Some questionable flakes - buddy on lead had one break off in his hand. Jun 12, 2016
Josh
Golden, CO
 
Josh   Golden, CO
 
The lefthand anchor bolt has been replaced as of Oct. 24, 2015, and both bolts now have chains. All hardware is looking safe, and the base area for the entire east wall has received significant stabilizing and erosion control, thanks to all the volunteer work from climbers and JeffCo Open Space staff over the 2015 season. Thanks for all the hard work on behalf of the community, everyone! Oct 25, 2015
Josh
Golden, CO
 
Josh   Golden, CO
 
Carl, I should say that I have finished checking the other routes with five-piece bolts on the Lower Tiers, and all others were adequately tight. The bolt that slid out on the other route (Lyin' Like a Lion) was in a unique position - the first bolt on a route with an overhang directly above plus the bolt immediately below a challenging crux. As a result, I believe this bolt was receiving frequent pulling and loading from different positions (including outward and upward) in rapid succession, and this contributed to its spinning loose more quickly than others of its kind would. After inspecting the others that were placed around the same time period, I am confident about them once again. Jun 27, 2015
Carl H.  
Josh, thanks for the quick checking, tightening, and posting on this. My son and I climbed this on the 15th and were concerned, especially after witnessing the 1st bolt falling out on the 5.10b nearby. Jun 20, 2015
Josh
Golden, CO
 
Josh   Golden, CO
 
I would like to replace the lefthand anchor bolt at the top of this route. It has been retightened (as have all the bolts on Irie as of 6/19/2015) and is safe enough for now, but the hanger is receiving leverage on a bit of a protrusion. I will post here when I have been able to get up there and fix it.
UPDATE 10/24/2015: the lefthand anchor bolt has now been replaced, and both bolts now have chains. Enjoy. Jun 20, 2015
Josh
Golden, CO
 
Josh   Golden, CO
 
There is a fun (but entirely optional) hueco to the left of the second bolt. Mar 30, 2015