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Routes in A. East Wall

African Herbsman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Beauty for Ashes TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Burning Bush, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Catch That Train T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dig Your Own Hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Irie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trenchtown S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zion Train S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: first recorded ascent: Josh Pollock and Michelle Lyon, November 2017
Page Views: 118 total · 15/month
Shared By: Josh on Nov 16, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the trad version of Trenchtown, though it misses the best part of that route by breaking off before the upper pitch. While the lower moves on the easy offwidth crack are interesting enough, the rest is nothing to write home about. Still, if you are interested in a pure trad line up the Lower Tier, or you own some big cams and are itching to place them, have at it.

Begin with the jagged, offwidth crack. At its top, move left, and follow roughly the same middle section as Trenchtown, using the flake/crack to the left of the arete for pro. At any point on this lower 2/3 of the route, you could clip bolts if you wish, but moving just left and right of the bolt line offers adequate options for natural pro.

At the second anchors, engage the left-leaning crack that leaves from there. The crux is an awkward move with flaring hand/fist jams right below an old, rusty, bent piton (which you should clip for laughs). Belay at the top of the widening crack, using the smaller cracks in the wall above.

From the top, it is an awkward, brushy scramble to hiking terrain near the top of the Lower Tier. The safest option for descent is likely to walk to the top of the Lower Tier and rappel either Zion Train or Don't Rock My Boat, as the walkoff down the gullies to the east is steep and loose and threatens the access trail below.

Location

This is on the left end of the Lower Tier. To reach this and the bolted route Trenchtown, which it crosses, scramble up the gully at the east end of the platform for Irie and Burning Bush. Crest the small rise, and drop down into the next level spot along the wall. You won't miss the jagged, left-facing offwidth crack.

Protection

A standard rack to a #4 Camalot. Two #4s are useful but not necessary. The first recorded ascent party used one #4 and one #4.5, because that's what they had (and didn't want to carry them any higher on the route than the starting offwidth).

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