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Routes in A. East Wall

African Herbsman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Burning Bush, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Catch That Train T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dig Your Own Hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Irie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trenchtown S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zion Train S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: First recorded ascent: Josh Pollock and Patty Evans, November 2017
Page Views: 100 total · 19/month
Shared By: Josh on Nov 17, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a well-protected trad pitch just to the left of the Zion Train pitch on the upper part of the Lower Tier. Yes, that means you will climb the 5.7 access pitch (The Burning Bush) to get to this one. The pitch is a bit of one-move wonder in terms of difficulty, but it is an enjoyable move with good position, and the rest of the climbing is pleasant as well.

Begin at the alcove belay as for Zion Train. Follow the blunt arete of the angling pillar to the left of the Zion Train face. At the top of this pillar, continue in the gully between this feature and the upper face of Zion Train until you can place a nut in the perfect finger crack with the tufts of grass on top, and then traverse out onto the face to your right above the Zion Train overhang. There are some slightly hidden hand and cam placements that make the traverse step more manageable than it first appears. From there, it is a few more easy moves in a shallow dish just left of the Zion Train bolt line to reach the top of the cliff, and clip the chain anchor.

Location

This is to the left of Zion Train on the upper part of the Lower Tier.

Protection

A standard rack. Doubles of some small and mid-sized cams or tri-cams are useful, as many placements are shallow grooves and horizontal pockets.

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