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Routes in A. East Wall

African Herbsman T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Beauty for Ashes TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Burning Bush, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Catch That Train T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dig Your Own Hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Irie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trenchtown S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zion Train S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Colin Dandridge, Matt Craig
Page Views: 171 total · 21/month
Shared By: Colin Dandridge on Dec 11, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This cool route involves climbing a tree for 35 feet before stepping off onto the rock and climbing up to the topout!

P1: climb the fir tree growing right next to the wall, 15 feet right of Trenchtown. After climbing and slinging branches for 30’, step left onto a rock ledge, then climb up and right to a big corner and build a belay. There is an old piton near the belay corner, 5.2 70’ (no live branches were harmed during the first ascent).

Alternate start: start in the right-facing corner to the right of the fir tree, and climb up to the belay ledge/corner, 5.4.

P2: clip the old piton for fun, step up to the right, and climb straight up, using flakes and interesting cracks staying right of the arete. Pass a big ledge, and continue up a wide, left-facing dihedral to the roof. One could go left to the anchors on the previous route or traverse up and right to the top. Watch out for loose blocks. Build and anchor, and belay, 5.5, 80’.

Decent: either walk down from the top ridgeline trail back to the car, or access one of the top anchors from other routes near by and rap.

Location

P1: start 15 feet to the right of Trenchtown. Climb the fir tree closest to the wall or climb the corner in front of the tree.

P2 starts near an old piton, 50’ up and right after stepping out of the tree.

Protection

Slings for the tree and gear to a #4 BD for building an anchor and the last pitch wide corner. There is one very old piton at top of P1. There is no fixed anchor. You can rap, downclimb to Trenchtown's anchors, and rappel.

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