Type: Sport, 195 ft (59 m)
FA: Josh Pollock and Jake Waples, October 2017
Page Views: 4,506 total · 82/month
Shared By: Josh on Nov 16, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


59 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

This is an easy, well-protected outing which can be done in one long push with a 70 meter rope or broken into 2 or 3 shorter pitches. While there is no truly stellar climbing, each section has something fun, and the upper pitch is quite worth the trip - steep 5.0 climbing on enormous jugs and chickenheads the size of toasters. It would be a good route to practice leading and multi-pitch logistics.

P1 (5.4, 45 feet) - follow three bolts on the face just left of the jagged, offwidth crack, using it for occasional holds (or not, if you want to make the opening moves into an awkward 5.7ish face climb), 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

P2 (5.3, 65 feet) - continue past 2 bolts to a blunt arete. Follow it to another ledge. You can climb a crack in the face just to the left of the bolt line, but it is more fun and just as easy to stay right on the arete itself. It is possible to scramble left along the ledge at this anchor to reach the ground (3rd Class), 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

P3 (5.4 [5.5?], 75 feet) - step up on blocks to clip the first bolt out on the edge of the face to your (looker's) right, then use sidepulls to swing yourself around onto the face. The first move is steep for a moment but well-protected, so go for it. After that, the climbing is 5.0 at best and grin-producing. There are almost too many giant knobs and rails to choose from, and while you're not working hard, you are still up high in a pretty spot, so enjoy the romp, 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

A single 70m rope will make an easy rap back to the P1 anchors but may not reach the ground in one shot.

Location

This is on the far left side of the Lower Tier. To reach the climb, scramble up the gully on the left end of the platform below Irie and The Burning Bush/Zion Train. Crest the small rise, and descend to the next level spot, with an offwidth, left-facing crack starting from there. Look for bolts just to the left of the wide crack.

It is also possible (but loose and dirty) to hike around to the climb from below.  Starting from just below the spot where the main trail arrives at the base of the cliff, sidehill through the woods below the platform where Irie and Burning Bush start, and pass another short wall (easy toprope options here).  Then ascend steeply up the next gully, arriving directly at the base of the climb.  This option is currently unconsolidated soil and duff and is unpleasant, but plans are afoot to put a better access trail in through this route in 2019....

Protection

13 bolts (3 on P1, 5 each on P2 and P3), plus three 2-bolt anchors.

Photos