Joy For Mourning
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m), Grade II |
| GPS: | 39.74413, -105.24309 |
| FA: | Jeremy Bauman & Mike Burdon, 2020 |
| Page Views: | 910 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Bauman on Oct 25, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Technical sequences with somewhat hidden gear make this route a joyous adventure at Tiers of Zion. While this is a beautifully exposed and inviting route, the crux moves require finding and placing good small gear. It is not recommended for folks new to the grade.
Location
To start, climb one of the lower routes to the big ledge (Beauty for Ashes / Joy for Mourning is the recommended link-up). For a full trad ascent, you can climb the crack just right of Beauty for Ashes.
Joy for Mourning is the obvious dihedral straight above the anchors atop the big ledge. Climb the dihedral just left of the second pitch of Don't Rock My Boat. Continue up as the dihedral rounds out and steepens. Once on easier terrain, follow the crack up to a 2 bolt anchor left of the the anchor for Don't Rock My Boat.
Protection
A singles rack to #3 (some may want doubles, but to each their own), small nuts for the crux (An RB protects the move nicely), and a bolted anchor. A 70m rope is preferred as I don't think a 60m quite gets you back to the ledge. If you decide to bring a 60m, you can however easily rap to the anchor for Rivers of Babylon.



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