Type: Sport, 205 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Josh Pollock, Chuck Fitch (P1), and Adam Huxley (P2), July 2014
Page Views: 6,480 total · 103/month
Shared By: Josh on Mar 27, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Do you see that big, downward-facing flake on the arete way above you? That’'s my boat-- don’'t rock it! (Seriously, the upper pitch of this route narrowly avoids this large, booming feature and a few other spots of potentially rotten rock, so stay on route). Despite this warning, Don'’t Rock My Boat is a fun and airy romp up the longest piece of the crag. It offers big exposure and great position for such moderate climbing. The second pitch is well-bolted at the cruxes, but some leaders may prefer an extra cam or two for the sections between.

Note that a single 60 meter rope will NOT lower you all the way back to the Promised Land Ledge from the top of pitch 2 — bring a 70m rope or bring a second rap line (or rappel diagonally to the alcove belay on Zion Train).

P1: 5.7, 95 feet. Start on a rock rib immediately right of the edge of the East Wall slab. Follow the rib up past 2 bolts, then pass a shrub (3rd bolt just above it) to step onto the base of the Recessed Slab itself. The most straightforward line stays just to the right of the bolts up the water-polished slab, using shallow dishes and edges but never moving all the way onto the arete. At the top of the slab, walk back to the anchor at the base of the next pitch. It is on a short, clean slab at the bottom of the rounded arete above. You will be standing on the western end of the Promised Land Ledge (11 bolts + 2-bolt anchor, 5.7).

P2: 5.7, 110 feet. Start with a short slab (2 bolts), then arrive below a large rounded block at the base of the arete (optional cam placement here). Clip a third bolt on the block and step onto it on the right by a small bush (5.7/5.7+). From here, enjoy the steep and juggy arete, staying to the left of the giant, downward-facing flake at 2/3 height. The most exciting line engages the steepest rock at all times by staying exactly on or even left of the bolt line (9 bolts + 2-bolt anchor).

Two 60-meter ropes tied together may not quite reach the ground from the top anchor, depending on how stretchy your ropes are, so be cautious.

Variation (5.9): at the crux block on pitch two, try mounting the block from the left side, which involves a bouldery heel-hook-and-pull-up move. You’'re well-protected if you clipped the bolt, so go for it!

Location

The start is just at the top of the short step up from the East Wall approach gully. It is the first bolted line on the Recessed Slab you will come to. The climb begins on a rounded rib with cedars growing near the base.

Protection

P1 - 11 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.
P2 - 9 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.

Eds. Perhaps consider a stick clip/cheater stiff draw if you are shorter.

Photos