Buffalo Soldier

The transition over the overhang to the face above is certainly the crux. There is one good hold here, but it is committing to bring your feet up and over. This is certainly a fun route. Mar 29, 2015

Fun climb. Didn't use gear, but that crack would eat up plenty of cams.

We thought that the sequence between bolt 1 and 2 was more cruxy than the roof. Feet are a little smeary and the crack tends to keep you off balance . Apr 5, 2015

Fun route with some tricky moves down low. We didn't use any gear. The only downside to this route is the moves to the right where you join the other route. It was a little disappointing to run out of bolts and have to move right to join the other line. Extending these bolts is prudent to avoid rope drag. Apr 12, 2015

Glad you liked the route, Matt. The FA party did look at continuing the line straight up, as opposed to breaking right to join the adjacent route, but the rock above loses angle significantly and is more grassy and loose. Lyin' Like a Lion definitely provides the cleaner and more consistent finish. Apr 16, 2015

This is sport, not trad. Jun 15, 2015

I climbed this and felt totally safe without using my gear, the first bolt is not that high. Although pulling the lip took a couple tries, I seemed well-protected with the 2 clips. More pro is safer, but the cams are optional for a confident leader IMHO. There are certainly good placements to be had but not really a mixed route like The Belay Brothers. Fun climb, great crack. Sep 22, 2015

This is a well-protected sport route, no need for cams. Aug 15, 2016

This route is suuuuuper fun! Warning to those going soon: there was a bird nest (with three sweet, little eggs) nestled on the ledge that would be really helpful to use right before the crux, in pulling over the slight overhang to the face above. It's possible to climb without using the ledge, but it is not as easy. So just watch out for the little fledglings eventually flying around! Jul 23, 2018 · Temporary Report