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Routes in C. Middle and West Walls

Back on Track T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Belay Brothers Bounce Back, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blunt Arete to Exit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Buffalo Soldier S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Offwidth Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Pirates S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Please Pick Up Your Trash T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Small Axe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Three Little Birds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Adam Huxley and Chuck Fitch, August 2013
Page Views: 2,187 total · 52/month
Shared By: Josh on Mar 27, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Buffalo Soldier is a steep crack that joins Lyin’ Like a Lion partway up. Protect the crack with small to medium cams, if you like, plus two bolts. When you reach the face above the overhang, break right and follow the bolts.


This is the leftmost route on the Middle Wall. Start right where the approach trail arrives at the wall - just look up and follow the crack.


7 bolts (+ optional cams) + 2-bolt anchor.


Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
The transition over the overhang to the face above is certainly the crux. There is one good hold here, but it is committing to bring your feet up and over. This is certainly a fun route. Mar 29, 2015
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
Fun climb. Didn't use gear, but that crack would eat up plenty of cams.

We thought that the sequence between bolt 1 and 2 was more cruxy than the roof. Feet are a little smeary and the crack tends to keep you off balance . Apr 5, 2015
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
Fun route with some tricky moves down low. We didn't use any gear. The only downside to this route is the moves to the right where you join the other route. It was a little disappointing to run out of bolts and have to move right to join the other line. Extending these bolts is prudent to avoid rope drag. Apr 12, 2015
Golden, CO
Josh   Golden, CO
Glad you liked the route, Matt. The FA party did look at continuing the line straight up, as opposed to breaking right to join the adjacent route, but the rock above loses angle significantly and is more grassy and loose. Lyin' Like a Lion definitely provides the cleaner and more consistent finish. Apr 16, 2015
Bal Rau
Denver, Colorado
Bal Rau   Denver, Colorado
This is sport, not trad. Jun 15, 2015
Johnny Muir-Addleman   Bishop
I climbed this and felt totally safe without using my gear, the first bolt is not that high. Although pulling the lip took a couple tries, I seemed well-protected with the 2 clips. More pro is safer, but the cams are optional for a confident leader IMHO. There are certainly good placements to be had but not really a mixed route like The Belay Brothers. Fun climb, great crack. Sep 22, 2015
Rob Baumgartner
Rob Baumgartner   Niwot
This is a well-protected sport route, no need for cams. Aug 15, 2016
Rebecca Hannigan
Denver, CO
Rebecca Hannigan   Denver, CO
This route is suuuuuper fun! Warning to those going soon: there was a bird nest (with three sweet, little eggs) nestled on the ledge that would be really helpful to use right before the crux, in pulling over the slight overhang to the face above. It's possible to climb without using the ledge, but it is not as easy. So just watch out for the little fledglings eventually flying around! Jul 23, 2018 · Temporary Report

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