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All Locations > Colorado > Golden > Lookout Mountai… > Tiers of Zion > C. Lower Tier > C. Middle and West Walls

Buffalo Soldier

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British


 Avg: 2.4 from 61 votes

Routes in C. Middle and West Walls

Back on Track T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Belay Brothers Bounce Back, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blunt Arete to Exit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Buffalo Soldier S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Offwidth Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Pirates S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Please Pick Up Your Trash T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Small Axe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Three Little Birds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Adam Huxley and Chuck Fitch, August 2013
Page Views: 1,971 total · 53/month
Shared By: Josh on Mar 27, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Buffalo Soldier is a steep crack that joins Lyin’ Like a Lion partway up. Protect the crack with small to medium cams, if you like, plus two bolts. When you reach the face above the overhang, break right and follow the bolts.

Location

This is the leftmost route on the Middle Wall. Start right where the approach trail arrives at the wall - just look up and follow the crack.

Protection

7 bolts (+ optional cams) + 2-bolt anchor.

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Start of the route.
Start of the route.
 0
Daria at the second clip.
Daria at the second clip.
 0
Near the 2nd bolt.
Near the 2nd bolt.
 0
Adam, 6/14/2014.
Adam, 6/14/2014.
 0
Looking down on the upper slab portion.
Looking down on the upper slab portion.
 0

7 Comments

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Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
The transition over the overhang to the face above is certainly the crux. There is one good hold here, but it is committing to bring your feet up and over. This is certainly a fun route. Mar 29, 2015
A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
Fun climb. Didn't use gear, but that crack would eat up plenty of cams.

We thought that the sequence between bolt 1 and 2 was more cruxy than the roof. Feet are a little smeary and the crack tends to keep you off balance . Apr 5, 2015
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
  5.10c
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
  5.10c
Fun route with some tricky moves down low. We didn't use any gear. The only downside to this route is the moves to the right where you join the other route. It was a little disappointing to run out of bolts and have to move right to join the other line. Extending these bolts is prudent to avoid rope drag. Apr 12, 2015
Josh
Golden, CO
 
Josh   Golden, CO
 
Glad you liked the route, Matt. The FA party did look at continuing the line straight up, as opposed to breaking right to join the adjacent route, but the rock above loses angle significantly and is more grassy and loose. Lyin' Like a Lion definitely provides the cleaner and more consistent finish. Apr 16, 2015
Bal Rau
Denver, Colorado
Bal Rau   Denver, Colorado
This is sport, not trad. Jun 15, 2015
Johnny Muir-Addleman
Bishop
 
Johnny Muir-Addleman   Bishop
 
I climbed this and felt totally safe without using my gear, the first bolt is not that high. Although pulling the lip took a couple tries, I seemed well-protected with the 2 clips. More pro is safer, but the cams are optional for a confident leader IMHO. There are certainly good placements to be had but not really a mixed route like The Belay Brothers. Fun climb, great crack. Sep 22, 2015
Baumer
Boulder, CO
 
Baumer   Boulder, CO
 
This is a well-protected sport route, no need for cams. Aug 15, 2016

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