Elevation: 6,900 ft
GPS: 40.004, -105.406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 120,278 total · 686/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 11, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Tonnere Tower is the modest-sized crag across Boulder Creek and slightly upstream from the Boulder Falls parking area. It rises more than 450 feet from the creek to the summit, making it one of the tallest crags in Boulder Canyon. The summit area provides great views of Lower Dream Canyon and Boulder Falls.

Visited by climbers many years ago, the crag has long been neglected, and gets only a brief mention in Richard Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook. The only documented route is an old line on the northwest ridge which is seldom climbed today.

In May-July 2007, several new sport routes were established on the east face. With six 2-pitch sport routes in the 5.10 and 5.11 range, and a 3-pitch 5.10 sport route, Tonnere Tower has become a favorite spot in Boulder Canyon for multi-pitch sport climbing. The east face of Tonnere (Sport Land) is a great place to climb on hot summer afternoons and evenings, going into the shade by 2pm.

In July-October 2007, many new mixed routes were established on the north face; one four-pitch route (Los Pinos) climbs from the creek to the summit. The north-face routes are in the shade for most of the day.

The best climbing months are May through October. By November, most of the routes are in the shade all day, and are enjoyable only if the weather is unseasonably warm.

All of the new routes have 2-bolt anchors, and can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Most routes have double-ring anchors which provide multiple clip-in points. Several routes have lowering hooks at the anchors for convenient lowering without having to untie to thread the rope. Routes that go to the summit use tree anchors for the top pitches.

With many good multi-pitch sport, trad, and mixed routes (35 routes and 56 pitches of climbing) and very easy access, Tonnere Tower is now a crag often visited by climbers, instead of the forgotten crag that it once was.

Tonnere Tower has several different climbing areas; Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter. From left to right:

Sport Land, on the east face, features multi-pitch sport climbs. There are also two pure trad routes in this area. Featured routes: Sidekick, Stayin' Alive, Toe The Line, Tag Team, and Total Eclipse. Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.

Treasure Wall, on the left side of the north face, has single- and multi-pitch sport climbs, a trad climb, and several multi-pitch mixed routes. Featured routes: Buried Treasure, The Twilight Kid, and Fields of Gold. Eds. the beta photos have been deleted by their submitter.

The Garden, in the center of the north face, has several single- and multi-pitch mixed routes and one sport route. Featured routes: Before The Deluge, Crackdown, Showtime, and The B Boys. Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.

Creekside, on the north face down by the creek, has single- and multi-pitch mixed routes. Featured routes: Local Hero and Spirit on the Water. Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.

Northwest Face, on the right side of the north face, has one old multi-pitch trad route, Northwest Ridge.

Getting There

Park at the upstream end of the Boulder Falls parking area, about 8.0 miles up the canyon, or just beyond by Boulder Slips.

A tyrolean traverse can be used to cross the creek when the water is too high to hop rocks or wade. It is located about 60 yards upstream from the Boulder Falls parking area, opposite the trailhead to Boulder Falls. The far end of the tyrolean is right by the path heading up to Sport Land, Treasure Wall, and The Garden.

If the water level is low enough, you can wade across the creek just downstream from the tyrolean. If you want to hop rocks, there are several spots a bit upstream from the tyrolean to check out.

Wading or hopping rocks can be done from late July until mid-May. The tyrolean is the best way across the creek from mid-May until late July.

See the individual sub-areas for detailed approach information.

36 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tonnere Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 7
Dutch Treat
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 51
Showtime
Trad 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 272
Buried Treasure
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Spirit on the Water
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 127
Total Eclipse
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 270
Stayin' Alive
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 91
Fields of Gold
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 77
Local Hero
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 124
Toe The Line
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 98
The Twilight Kid
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 71
Tag Team
Sport 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 17
The B Boys
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 147
Sidekick
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 56
Generous Donation
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Smooth Operator
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dutch Treat Garden
 7
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Showtime Garden
 51
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Buried Treasure Treasure Wall
 272
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Spirit on the Water Creekside
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Total Eclipse Sport Land
 127
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Stayin' Alive Sport Land
 270
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Fields of Gold Treasure Wall
 91
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Local Hero Creekside
 77
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Toe The Line Sport Land
 124
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
The Twilight Kid Treasure Wall
 98
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Tag Team Sport Land
 71
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
The B Boys Garden
 17
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Sidekick Sport Land
 147
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Generous Donation Sport Land
 56
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Smooth Operator Garden
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Tonnere Tower »

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