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Routes in Sport Land
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Clean Sweep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Face Off S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Generous Donation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hard Times S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nick Of Time T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sidekick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stayin' Alive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tag Team S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Toe The Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Total Eclipse S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Up and Left - Lone Unknown Route S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 155 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 5/27/07 |
| Page Views: | 6,550 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on May 27, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: all Boulder Canyon closures have been lifted!
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
Total Eclipse is another multi-pitch sport route in Sport Land. It climbs the right side of the east face in two pitches of fun, varied climbing.
Start in the same place as for Tag Team, at a 2-bolt belay anchor on a ledge just right of a big pine tree.
P1. Angle right up a slab, then move left into a slot. Step left onto another slab, and move up to a roof. Turn the roof on the right, and climb a steep face to the anchor. 5.9, 60', 8 bolts.
P2. Step up right and climb a short headwall, and continue up a slab past a bulge. Crank right onto another slab. Make some thin moves up the slab (crux), and continue up to a steep headwall. Do not stop at the chained anchor of Tag Team left of the 9th bolt. Instead, angle up right onto the headwall and continue for 3 more bolts to the anchor just below the tree at the top. 5.10a, 95', 12 bolts.
Descent: Two rappels, 95' and 60', back to the start.
Start in the same place as for Tag Team, at a 2-bolt belay anchor on a ledge just right of a big pine tree.
P1. Angle right up a slab, then move left into a slot. Step left onto another slab, and move up to a roof. Turn the roof on the right, and climb a steep face to the anchor. 5.9, 60', 8 bolts.
P2. Step up right and climb a short headwall, and continue up a slab past a bulge. Crank right onto another slab. Make some thin moves up the slab (crux), and continue up to a steep headwall. Do not stop at the chained anchor of Tag Team left of the 9th bolt. Instead, angle up right onto the headwall and continue for 3 more bolts to the anchor just below the tree at the top. 5.10a, 95', 12 bolts.
Descent: Two rappels, 95' and 60', back to the start.
Longmont, CO
The second pitch is fabulous! Jun 11, 2007
Around Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
Bozeman, MT
Regardless of your stance on "ethics" of climbing and what gear you choose to use when you climb, Ron deserves thanks for putting up these routes. He was covered in dirt the day we met and his shins looked pretty destroyed from all his work. I can't say that many climbers I've met in Boulder would work so hard.
I've now climbed a lot of the routes here and they're great. Save your ethics and politicking for next year's election. Thanks, Ron. Jul 20, 2007
Boulder
alpinist.com/doc/web08s/new…
Thanks to the first ascensionists for the hard work and good routes up at Tonnere. Obviously a bunch of time, effort, and dough spent up there. Apr 29, 2008
Denver, CO
Olympia, WA
Boulder, Colorado
I believe I moved a little far left, clipped into a bolt from Tag Team and went under the roof before moving right back onto the route. If you're interested in an exciting little variation, that one's totally worthwhile. Jul 14, 2013