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Routes in Sport Land

Clean Sweep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face Off S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Generous Donation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hard Times S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nick Of Time T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sidekick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stayin' Alive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tag Team S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Toe The Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total Eclipse S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up and Left - Lone Unknown Route S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 155 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 5/27/07
Page Views: 6,129 total, 48/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 27, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Total Eclipse is another multi-pitch sport route in Sport Land. It climbs the right side of the east face in two pitches of fun, varied climbing.

Start in the same place as for Tag Team, at a 2-bolt belay anchor on a ledge just right of a big pine tree.

P1. Angle right up a slab, then move left into a slot. Step left onto another slab, and move up to a roof. Turn the roof on the right, and climb a steep face to the anchor. 5.9, 60', 8 bolts.

P2. Step up right and climb a short headwall, and continue up a slab past a bulge. Crank right onto another slab. Make some thin moves up the slab (crux), and continue up to a steep headwall. Do not stop at the chained anchor of Tag Team left of the 9th bolt. Instead, angle up right onto the headwall and continue for 3 more bolts to the anchor just below the tree at the top. 5.10a, 95', 12 bolts.

Descent: Two rappels, 95' and 60', back to the start.

Location

In Sport Land, just right of Tag Team. Eds. The beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.

Protection

P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Trad climbers can skip some of the bolts and place gear on the route if they so desire.

Photos

jamandbees
Boulder, Colorado
 
jamandbees   Boulder, Colorado
 
I led the first pitch. Totally believe the 5.9 rating. It was fantastic, really enjoyable set of gyrations needed to get around on it.

I believe I moved a little far left, clipped into a bolt from Tag Team and went under the roof before moving right back onto the route. If you're interested in an exciting little variation, that one's totally worthwhile. Jul 14, 2013
Andrew Shoemaker
Olympia, WA
  5.10a
Andrew Shoemaker   Olympia, WA
  5.10a
I can't really comment on the grade of this route, because I don't even think I was on it. I have no idea how I ended up doing this, but I started at the slab for Total Eclipse, at the roof ended up going straight over at the Tag Team one move wonder .10d (which I thought was .10c) and then ended up at the anchors for Toe The Line...still a fun climb though! Haha Jul 4, 2011
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.10a
Surprised it was bolted as recently as it is - very clean and overall fun route. Aug 25, 2010
Thanks to everyone for all the hard work and $$$ for equipping the routes. I had a blast climbing up there and will be back soon. Peace. May 23, 2008
Maybe worth a read:
alpinist.com/doc/web08s/new…

Thanks to the first ascensionists for the hard work and good routes up at Tonnere. Obviously a bunch of time, effort, and dough spent up there. Apr 29, 2008
Bruce Pech
  5.10a
Bruce Pech  
  5.10a
"Totally clips" -- a Robbins caliber pun. Yes, it can be climbed with gear. It's also a pleasant sport climb. Does it really matter? Jul 30, 2007
Luke Zuke
Bozeman, MT
Luke Zuke   Bozeman, MT
Last week I met Ron at this crag, and I must say it was a pleasure. He was incredibly nice and offered detailed info on his new routes.

Regardless of your stance on "ethics" of climbing and what gear you choose to use when you climb, Ron deserves thanks for putting up these routes. He was covered in dirt the day we met and his shins looked pretty destroyed from all his work. I can't say that many climbers I've met in Boulder would work so hard.

I've now climbed a lot of the routes here and they're great. Save your ethics and politicking for next year's election. Thanks, Ron. Jul 20, 2007
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
I sincerely appreciate all the work that went into cleaning this route, but there really isn't a need for bolts on this climb. Bring a light rack and a 60m rope and you can send this in one nice long pitch. Felt like a 5.8/5.9 at Lumpy Ridge. Two 60's for the rap, maybe two 50's would reach not totally sure. Jul 13, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
A good route that can also be protected trad. Take a rack if you like to place gear. The runouts will be fairly mild. Jun 16, 2007
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
 
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
 
The first pitch is nice and makes you think.
The second pitch is fabulous! Jun 11, 2007