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Total Eclipse

5.10a, Sport, 155 ft (47 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 173 votes
FA: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 5/27/07
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Tonnere Tower > Sport Land
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Description

Total Eclipse is another multi-pitch sport route in Sport Land. It climbs the right side of the east face in two pitches of fun, varied climbing.

Start in the same place as for Tag Team, at a 2-bolt belay anchor on a ledge just right of a big pine tree.

P1. Angle right up a slab, then move left into a slot. Step left onto another slab, and move up to a roof. Turn the roof on the right, and climb a steep face to the anchor. 5.9, 60', 8 bolts.

P2. Step up right and climb a short headwall, and continue up a slab past a bulge. Crank right onto another slab. Make some thin moves up the slab (crux), and continue up to a steep headwall. Do not stop at the chained anchor of Tag Team left of the 9th bolt. Instead, angle up right onto the headwall and continue for 3 more bolts to the anchor just below the tree at the top. 5.10a, 95', 12 bolts.

Descent: Two rappels, 95' and 60', back to the start.

Location

In Sport Land, just right of Tag Team. Eds. The beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.

Protection

P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Trad climbers can skip some of the bolts and place gear on the route if they so desire.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rapping off of P2 of Total Eclipse.
[Hide Photo] Rapping off of P2 of Total Eclipse.
Pink: Total Eclipse.
<br>
Yellow: Tag Team.
[Hide Photo] Pink: Total Eclipse. Yellow: Tag Team.
Ali going over the first pitch roof.  Both pitches are great on this line!
[Hide Photo] Ali going over the first pitch roof. Both pitches are great on this line!
Photo stolen from Bill Olszewski for beta purposes. The climber in the photo is on Tag Team. The red line is the approximate line we look for Total Eclipse.
[Hide Photo] Photo stolen from Bill Olszewski for beta purposes. The climber in the photo is on Tag Team. The red line is the approximate line we look for Total Eclipse.
Passing the roof.
[Hide Photo] Passing the roof.
Andrew Matthews on Total Eclipse.
[Hide Photo] Andrew Matthews on Total Eclipse.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The first pitch is nice and makes you think.
The second pitch is fabulous! Jun 11, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] A good route that can also be protected trad. Take a rack if you like to place gear. The runouts will be fairly mild. Jun 16, 2007
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I sincerely appreciate all the work that went into cleaning this route, but there really isn't a need for bolts on this climb. Bring a light rack and a 60m rope and you can send this in one nice long pitch. Felt like a 5.8/5.9 at Lumpy Ridge. Two 60's for the rap, maybe two 50's would reach not totally sure. Jul 13, 2007
Luke Zuke
Bozeman, MT
[Hide Comment] Last week I met Ron at this crag, and I must say it was a pleasure. He was incredibly nice and offered detailed info on his new routes.

Regardless of your stance on "ethics" of climbing and what gear you choose to use when you climb, Ron deserves thanks for putting up these routes. He was covered in dirt the day we met and his shins looked pretty destroyed from all his work. I can't say that many climbers I've met in Boulder would work so hard.

I've now climbed a lot of the routes here and they're great. Save your ethics and politicking for next year's election. Thanks, Ron. Jul 20, 2007
Bruce Pech
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] "Totally clips" -- a Robbins caliber pun. Yes, it can be climbed with gear. It's also a pleasant sport climb. Does it really matter? Jul 30, 2007
[Hide Comment] Maybe worth a read:
alpinist.com/doc/web08s/new…

Thanks to the first ascensionists for the hard work and good routes up at Tonnere. Obviously a bunch of time, effort, and dough spent up there. Apr 29, 2008
[Hide Comment] Thanks to everyone for all the hard work and $$$ for equipping the routes. I had a blast climbing up there and will be back soon. Peace. May 23, 2008
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Surprised it was bolted as recently as it is - very clean and overall fun route. Aug 25, 2010
Andrew Shoemaker
Olympia, WA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I can't really comment on the grade of this route, because I don't even think I was on it. I have no idea how I ended up doing this, but I started at the slab for Total Eclipse, at the roof ended up going straight over at the Tag Team one move wonder .10d (which I thought was .10c) and then ended up at the anchors for Toe The Line...still a fun climb though! Haha Jul 4, 2011
jamandbees
Boulder, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] I led the first pitch. Totally believe the 5.9 rating. It was fantastic, really enjoyable set of gyrations needed to get around on it.

I believe I moved a little far left, clipped into a bolt from Tag Team and went under the roof before moving right back onto the route. If you're interested in an exciting little variation, that one's totally worthwhile. Jul 14, 2013
Prav C
Arvada, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Was anyone else confused by the sheer number of bolt lines going all over the place? On P1, there is a bolt line that goes through a small roof and another that goes off to the right. Then on P2, the route branches three ways: left up a slab, middle up a roof/bulge, and right up a steep dihedral. I’m not sure what route I was on, but I ended up at the intended anchor, I think. Oct 9, 2020