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Routes in Sport Land
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6H4D (6 Horses 4 Daisy) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Clean Sweep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Face Off S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Generous Donation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Goodbye Horses S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Hard Times S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nick Of Time T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sidekick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stayin' Alive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tag Team S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Toe The Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Total Eclipse S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Up and Left - Lone Unknown Route S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Ron Olsen and Mike Amato, 6/21/07 |
| Page Views: | 3,440 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Jun 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Clean Sweep is a fun trad route that goes up a steep crack system right of the second pitch of Stayin' Alive.
This route is a good reason to bring your trad rack to Tonnere Tower -- it's not just for bolt clippers anymore! The cruxes are well protected, but you'll need good pro-placing skills along the way.
Start by climbing the first pitch of Stayin' Alive (5.9, 7 bolts), Face Off (5.8, 6 bolts), or Nick Of Time (5.6, gear). Bring your partner up. Now move the belay 15' right to a second 2-bolt anchor. Clean Sweep starts here. You could also climb Buried Treasure (5.9, bolts, 2 pitches) to get to this anchor.
Traverse right below a small roof for about 20' until you're below a nice-looking crack system. Climb up the cracks, with a fun 5.8 layback (#2 Camalot for pro). At a steep headwall, get a green Alien in a small finger pocket on the right, and traverse a bit right (5.8) and up to the top of a flake. A second steep crack system looms above. Climb up the steep cracks with a 5.9 crux (#13 Stopper for pro). Continue up and traverse right around an airy bulge (purple tricam in horizontal quartz crack for pro). Climb up to a big grassy ledge, and go up a short steep section to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge, just down and right from the top anchor on Stayin' Alive.
Descent: rappel 90' back to the ledge at the start; angle the rappel a bit to the left. Then rappel 95' from the Stayin' Alive anchor back to the ground. From the anchor at the start of Clean Sweep, you could also rappel Buried Treasure (2 rappels, 70' and 95') back to the start of that route.
This route is a good reason to bring your trad rack to Tonnere Tower -- it's not just for bolt clippers anymore! The cruxes are well protected, but you'll need good pro-placing skills along the way.
Start by climbing the first pitch of Stayin' Alive (5.9, 7 bolts), Face Off (5.8, 6 bolts), or Nick Of Time (5.6, gear). Bring your partner up. Now move the belay 15' right to a second 2-bolt anchor. Clean Sweep starts here. You could also climb Buried Treasure (5.9, bolts, 2 pitches) to get to this anchor.
Traverse right below a small roof for about 20' until you're below a nice-looking crack system. Climb up the cracks, with a fun 5.8 layback (#2 Camalot for pro). At a steep headwall, get a green Alien in a small finger pocket on the right, and traverse a bit right (5.8) and up to the top of a flake. A second steep crack system looms above. Climb up the steep cracks with a 5.9 crux (#13 Stopper for pro). Continue up and traverse right around an airy bulge (purple tricam in horizontal quartz crack for pro). Climb up to a big grassy ledge, and go up a short steep section to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge, just down and right from the top anchor on Stayin' Alive.
Descent: rappel 90' back to the ledge at the start; angle the rappel a bit to the left. Then rappel 95' from the Stayin' Alive anchor back to the ground. From the anchor at the start of Clean Sweep, you could also rappel Buried Treasure (2 rappels, 70' and 95') back to the start of that route.
Location
On the northeast face of Tonnere Tower, right of the second pitch of Stayin' Alive. Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.
Protection
Lots of finger- to hand-sized pro. A large wired nut (#13 Stopper), a #2 tricam (purple), double set of cams from green Alien to #2 Camalot, and a #3 Camalot. A third #2 Camalot could be useful.
There are some flared cracks along the way; a set of hybrid Aliens is useful if you have them. I placed a red/yellow hybrid Alien on the pitch.
2-bolt belay anchor at the start; 2-bolt anchor at the top.
I put in about 14 pieces of pro on the first ascent; stronger leaders could get by with less.
There are some flared cracks along the way; a set of hybrid Aliens is useful if you have them. I placed a red/yellow hybrid Alien on the pitch.
2-bolt belay anchor at the start; 2-bolt anchor at the top.
I put in about 14 pieces of pro on the first ascent; stronger leaders could get by with less.
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