Avg: 1.7 from 19 votes
|Type:||Trad, 95 ft (29 m)|
|FA:||Ron Olsen and Mike Amato, 6/21/07|
|Page Views:||3,177 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Orphaned on Jun 21, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per: Katherine Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21 - Boulder Canyon climbing area reopens after unsuccessful nesting season.
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, firstname.lastname@example.org, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
This route is a good reason to bring your trad rack to Tonnere Tower -- it's not just for bolt clippers anymore! The cruxes are well protected, but you'll need good pro-placing skills along the way.
Start by climbing the first pitch of Stayin' Alive (5.9, 7 bolts), Face Off (5.8, 6 bolts), or Nick Of Time (5.6, gear). Bring your partner up. Now move the belay 15' right to a second 2-bolt anchor. Clean Sweep starts here. You could also climb Buried Treasure (5.9, bolts, 2 pitches) to get to this anchor.
Traverse right below a small roof for about 20' until you're below a nice-looking crack system. Climb up the cracks, with a fun 5.8 layback (#2 Camalot for pro). At a steep headwall, get a green Alien in a small finger pocket on the right, and traverse a bit right (5.8) and up to the top of a flake. A second steep crack system looms above. Climb up the steep cracks with a 5.9 crux (#13 Stopper for pro). Continue up and traverse right around an airy bulge (purple tricam in horizontal quartz crack for pro). Climb up to a big grassy ledge, and go up a short steep section to a 2-bolt anchor on a small ledge, just down and right from the top anchor on Stayin' Alive.
Descent: rappel 90' back to the ledge at the start; angle the rappel a bit to the left. Then rappel 95' from the Stayin' Alive anchor back to the ground. From the anchor at the start of Clean Sweep, you could also rappel Buried Treasure (2 rappels, 70' and 95') back to the start of that route.
There are some flared cracks along the way; a set of hybrid Aliens is useful if you have them. I placed a red/yellow hybrid Alien on the pitch.
2-bolt belay anchor at the start; 2-bolt anchor at the top.
I put in about 14 pieces of pro on the first ascent; stronger leaders could get by with less.