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Routes in Sport Land

Clean Sweep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face Off S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Generous Donation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hard Times S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nick Of Time T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sidekick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stayin' Alive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tag Team S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Toe The Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total Eclipse S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up and Left - Lone Unknown Route S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bruno Haché and Ron Olsen, 5/13/07
Page Views: 2,374 total, 19/month
Shared By: Bruno Hache on May 13, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Great summer climb, in the shade from noonish. The crux is from the 3rd bolt to the 4th bolt. Very nice 30-foot sequence of reachy and fingery technical moves up a steep headwall await you, just up from the anchor atop the first pitch of Toe the Line. Once past the "not that easy" roof mantle, easier ground will bring you to a top-anchor shared with the second pitch of Toe the Line.

Rappel or lower 80' back to the start, and then rappel 95' to the ground.

The name of the route arose from the Generous Donation of a Tyrolean rope by Kevin Currigan and pioneer cleaning (and more to come) by Ron Olsen on this area of Tonnere Tower.

Location

On the east side of Tonnere Tower, find Toe the Line (the obvious arĂȘte). From the top of the first pitch of Toe the Line, climb the headwall straight up from that belay. Route #2 in the ?beta photo?.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Easier ground above the roof is purposely more run-out to keep it interesting.

Photos

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Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
  5.11a
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
  5.11a
I guess I'd give this an 11a, BoCan sport ratings :). I'm 5' 5" and didn't really feel like anything was that reachy. A stout couple of moves lead to a jug flake right of the lip. Then it's pretty much over. Definitely fun and worth doing if you're up there. Just looks cool from the belay on Toe the Line. Rapped down from the top of Toe the Line to do this pitch. Aug 13, 2016
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
 
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
 
As usual, fresh cleaning often make the fresh FAs feel harder.
9 years later, now that this route cleaned up from climbers enjoying the route, I revised the grade to the consensus 5.11a. Jul 29, 2016
John Rudolph
  5.10+
John Rudolph  
  5.10+
I had a lot of fun on this route last week. Although the 5.11 rating is too high I think. I am just under 6 feet and had no problems reaching the good holds. Superb feet everywhere. Fun climb, 5.10+. Sep 25, 2009
Mark Wiranowski
  5.11a
Mark Wiranowski  
  5.11a
Nice route with a fun, albeit short headwall - probably 11a. However, I would urge climbers to be careful about the crux flake. The moves require pulling directly outwards, and over time, this force may dislodge the flake. The belayer and other climbers below should beware and ready in case the flake should go. Aug 6, 2009
Bruce Pech
  5.11a
Bruce Pech  
  5.11a
Like Ken, I did a high step right at the top of the headwall. It appeared to be the logical exit move.

For a pretty nice, quasi-three pitch route, climb both pitches of Toe the Line, rap back to the belay beneath the headwall, and finish up Generous Donation Aug 22, 2007
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
 
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
 
Ken,
Thanks so much for the warning about the fixed line.
I went up and pulled the rope up so the exposed core was not on the rappel line. You may have saved my life!?! :)

You are very welcome for this addition to Tonnere. It is a fun crux.

About the flat stuff at the end, I would like to make a comment.
Yes, I agree that it is much easier in the flat stuff section.
But I felt that this section is actually fun.
Easy but quite exposed with tons of air.
So to make it interesting, I purposely spaced out the bolts more than at the crux.
More run-out in easier terrain with tons of air! I quite enjoyed it when I did the FA! :) Those were my thoughts when I set it up.

Bruno Jun 27, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Ken,

Glad you enjoyed the route. You would probably need a 70m rope to rappel from the top of the headwall back to the ground. The end of the first pitch of Toe The Line is about 95' up; the headwall is another 30' or so. I don't think you can get down from there with a 60m rope without doing some down-climbing.

Our intention at Tonnere is to make every route safe to rappel with a 60m rope. Putting in an anchor that requires a 70m rope would be a dangerous thing to do, in my opinion. Jun 22, 2007
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
Bruno and Ron, thanks for the work in putting up this route, (and the tyrolean, and the trail work, etc.!) The crux moves are cool -- those incut edges are small, but very positive. I did a high-step right to get off the headwall -- was that your intention?

I did the route as a single pitch, combining it with the first pitch of Toe the Line. Just a suggestion, why not put an anchor after the headwall so the route (Toe the Line 1st pitch + the crux 11 moves) could be done as a single pitch with a single rope rap. This would make for a continous climb without all the low angle stuff at the end.

Also, we were going to rap your fixed line from the tree at top, but observed that about 8" of sheath is missing from the rope about 20 ft down from the tree. I seriously advise not trusting your life to this rope.

Thanks again! Jun 22, 2007