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Routes in Sport Land

Clean Sweep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face Off S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Generous Donation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hard Times S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nick Of Time T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sidekick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stayin' Alive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tag Team S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Toe The Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Total Eclipse S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up and Left - Lone Unknown Route S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 185 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Ron Olsen and Nickie Kelly, 6/8/07. P2: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 6/10/07
Page Views: 10,920 total · 81/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 10, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


232 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Stayin' Alive is another excellent sport route in Sport Land. The first pitch is good, and the second pitch is fabulous -- one of the best moderate 5.10 sport pitches I've done in Boulder Canyon. Don't miss this one when you visit Tonnere!

Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor below the arete right of Face Off. Be careful traversing over to the start; the ledge is exposed.

P1: Angle right to the arete, and climb past a steep section (9) to a stance. Continue up to the top of a small pinnacle. Cross a ledge, climb a steeper headwall, and angle left to the anchor shared with Face Off and Nick Of Time. 5.9, 90', 7 bolts.

P2. The fun begins! Climb a steep face above the anchor, and move right to a prominent "tooth". Don't pull on the tooth; it's delicate and may have to be removed. Traverse right past the tooth to a left-facing corner. Climb the steep corner and exit right to a stance (9). Climb up and right to a V-corner. Stem and layback up the corner to its top (10a). Climb up and left to an airy arete. Climb the arete and traverse right to the anchor. 5.10a, 95', 13 bolts.

Descend via two rappels with a 60m rope.

Location

On the arete right of Nick Of Time and Face Off.

Protection

P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 13 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Bring a few longer draws/runners.

Trad climbers can skip some of the bolts and place gear on the route if they so desire.

Photos

Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
 
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
 
The first pitch arete is spectacular, because you are on the arete with lots of air and good climbing. The second pitch is fabulous!
The dihedral crux makes you think, then the easier, undercling arete keeps the pitch very interesting and airy!
A classic at the grade in Boulder Canyon! Jun 30, 2007
Brenda Leach
Sandy, UT
Brenda Leach   Sandy, UT
P2 is great! Fun underclings and side pulls with footholds that aren't always obvious. The dihedral requires some thoughtful footwork, too. Jul 1, 2007
Richard Radcliffe
Louisville, CO
 
Richard Radcliffe   Louisville, CO
 
P2 is a nice pitch. However, I'd be very cautious on P1. The 3rd or 4th bolt (second bolt on the pinnacle part of the arete) is attached to a very large block (which you obviously have to climb on and over) and, as far as we could tell, the block is NOT ATTACHED to solid rock. Only gravity seems to be holding it in place. For now....

EDIT: I contacted Ron about this block (9/23/07). He's looking into it and will undoubtedly provide an accurate assessment of the situation. Sep 23, 2007
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.9
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.9
The second pitch has a nice bolted crack on it... Fun moves though. I don't quite understand why there are 4 bolts after the crack, but whatever. Oct 4, 2007
Nikolai Daiss-Fechner
Boulder, CO
Nikolai Daiss-Fechner   Boulder, CO
The second pitch crux is Awesome! Looks a little intimidating but just keep moving. Great route and really well bolted. Apr 16, 2008
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
Second pitch is a blast! Thanks Ron, Bruno and everyone who has worked on Tonnere. Jun 2, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.9
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.9
Great pitch but no harder than the first pitch of Buried Treasure. The link-up of the two is a pretty good outing for sure. Aug 9, 2009
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
5.9
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
5.9
P2: Great pitch, too bad there's lots of bolts in the way. Easily lead with natural, removable gear (except the contrived arete ending).

Bolted finger cracks, has everyone else gone crazy? How has this not been chopped? Sep 16, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
'..Ya but I wasn't over. Mark it an 8.'

'Smokey, you're entering a World of PAIN.' Sep 17, 2009
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
It's a league game, Smokey. Sep 17, 2009
Kevin Craig
  5.10a
Kevin Craig  
  5.10a
P1 feels a bit contrived but has fun moves and nice position. P2 is fantastic, consistent climbing. I agree that it could mostly be sewn up with gear (might be a bit dicey around the dihedral), but I still enjoyed it as a sport climb (and I'm mostly a traddie). Thanks, guys, for putting this and the other routes up on Tonnere. Cool area with great rock. Hint: make sure you save some energy and hand strength for going back across the Tyrolean. Jul 16, 2010
Nick Wilder
Boulder, CO
 
Nick Wilder   Boulder, CO  
 
One of the best sport climbs at the grade in BC. Great, continuous moves, especially on the second pitch. Perfect view of Boulder Falls the whole way. Would be a stellar trad climb.... Jun 15, 2011
mike h
Denver, CO
 
mike h   Denver, CO
 
The last pitch is remarkable - as said above, maybe the best easy 10 in the canyon (aside from the questionable bolting). Start on Buried Treasure for a classic 3 pitch sport climb, I thought both pitches of that were better than P1 of Stayin' Alive. May 28, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Haven't yet done the first pitch, but the second pitch is, without a doubt, the very best 5.10a bolted climb I've ever led!!! Jul 3, 2012
jamandbees
Boulder, Colorado
 
jamandbees   Boulder, Colorado
 
I climbed the first pitch arete. It was really enjoyable; I'd give it a 5.8 rather than the 5.9 listed here. Jul 14, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
I agree that the 1st pitch is a 5.8, not a 5.9. Aug 4, 2013
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
People love this climb because it climbs like a fun trad route. Lots of cracks, underclings and sidepulls, all in perfect gear placements. Since mixed routes are common in the area, why not leave this one mixed, too. Way to go. Apr 26, 2014
Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
 
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
 
Linking the two pitches is possible with a 60 but really not recommended. May 21, 2014
Nate Muncy
Thornton, CO
 
Nate Muncy   Thornton, CO
 
Agreed with Justin, the rope drag is something fierce. May 21, 2014
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Buried Alive feels like the most natural line of pitches. Very fun three-pitch 5.9. Great intro for aspiring 5.9 leaders. Carry your approach shoes, as the walk-off is much easier and faster than rapping.

Pitch 1: (Buried Treasure) 5.8-
Pitch 2: (Buried Treasure) 5.6
Pitch 3: (Staying Alive crux) 5.9. Oct 30, 2014
This can be led on gear in one pitch with a 70m rope starting with Nick of Time. Only sketchy part of the final slab with no gear but easy climbing. Fun climbing up high. Jul 6, 2015
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9+
The very closely spaced bolting on pitch 2 gives it the feel of a very well-positioned UK HVS 5b pitch. Oct 10, 2015

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