Sport Land Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 7,100 ft | 2,164 m |
GPS: |
40.0038, -105.4058 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 46,842 total · 222/month | |
Shared By: | Orphaned on Sep 18, 2007 | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Sport Land is the east face of Tonnere Tower, so-named because it is the main sport-climbing area on the crag. All the bolted routes here are sport routes: if you see a bolted line, you can be assured that it is a sport route and no gear will be needed.
Outstanding routes include Stayin' Alive, Sidekick, and Tag Team.
The routes in Sport Land were intentionally created as sport climbs, to provide an area for moderate, multi-pitch routes where only quickdraws are needed. Some of the routes can also be protected with trad gear, either partially or totally (Total Eclipse, Sidekick, Stayin' Alive). If you prefer to place gear, bring your trad rack and see how many bolts you can skip. If you prefer to clip bolts, bring your quickdraws. Either way, have fun climbing!
The east face of Tonnere Tower gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon, making it a good afternoon/early evening destination on hotter days, and a good morning destination on cooler days.
There are six two-pitch sport routes and two one-pitch sport routes here, ranging in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.11. There are two trad routes here as well: a 5.6 corner with a wide crack (Nick of Time) and a 5.9 hand crack pitch on the upper wall (Clean Sweep).
The routes from left to right:
0. Up and Left - Lone Unknown Route, 10-, 1p, 65', bolts.
1. Toe The Line, 10, 2p, bolts. Arete on east face.
2. Generous Donation, 11-, 1p, bolts. Headwall left of P2 of 1.
3. Tag Team, 10+, 2p, bolts. Slabs and overhangs right of 1.
4. Total Eclipse, 10-, 2p, bolts. Line R of 3.
5. Sidekick, 10+, 2p, bolts. Face right of 4.
6. Nick Of Time, 6, 1p, gear. Corner with wide crack.
7. Hard Times, 11=, 1p, bolts. Steep face starting partway up 6/8.
8. Face Off, 8, 1p, bolts. Face right of 6
9. Stayin' Alive, 10-, 2p. bolts. Arete right of 8.
10. Clean Sweep, 9, 1p, gear. Cracks right of P2 of 9.
Outstanding routes include Stayin' Alive, Sidekick, and Tag Team.
The routes in Sport Land were intentionally created as sport climbs, to provide an area for moderate, multi-pitch routes where only quickdraws are needed. Some of the routes can also be protected with trad gear, either partially or totally (Total Eclipse, Sidekick, Stayin' Alive). If you prefer to place gear, bring your trad rack and see how many bolts you can skip. If you prefer to clip bolts, bring your quickdraws. Either way, have fun climbing!
The east face of Tonnere Tower gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon, making it a good afternoon/early evening destination on hotter days, and a good morning destination on cooler days.
There are six two-pitch sport routes and two one-pitch sport routes here, ranging in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.11. There are two trad routes here as well: a 5.6 corner with a wide crack (Nick of Time) and a 5.9 hand crack pitch on the upper wall (Clean Sweep).
The routes from left to right:
0. Up and Left - Lone Unknown Route, 10-, 1p, 65', bolts.
1. Toe The Line, 10, 2p, bolts. Arete on east face.
2. Generous Donation, 11-, 1p, bolts. Headwall left of P2 of 1.
3. Tag Team, 10+, 2p, bolts. Slabs and overhangs right of 1.
4. Total Eclipse, 10-, 2p, bolts. Line R of 3.
5. Sidekick, 10+, 2p, bolts. Face right of 4.
6. Nick Of Time, 6, 1p, gear. Corner with wide crack.
7. Hard Times, 11=, 1p, bolts. Steep face starting partway up 6/8.
8. Face Off, 8, 1p, bolts. Face right of 6
9. Stayin' Alive, 10-, 2p. bolts. Arete right of 8.
10. Clean Sweep, 9, 1p, gear. Cracks right of P2 of 9.
Getting There
Cross the creek via the tyrolean, or wade or hop rocks if the water level is low enough.
Once across the creek, go to the tree on the far side of the tyrolean, and follow a path up left through the woods to a talus field. Climb up the talus, following cairns, to the rock wall. Head left on a path next to the wall, and turn right up the hill on a steep dirt path below the east face. After a few minutes, the prominent east arete (Toe The Line) will loom above you on the right.
Continue up a bit past the east arete, and then traverse right on a dirt ledge to get to the start of the east face routes. This ledge is exposed, so be careful. You might want to gear up before traversing out on the ledge. There are belay anchors on the ledge at the start of every route.
This approach takes about 15 minutes.
Once across the creek, go to the tree on the far side of the tyrolean, and follow a path up left through the woods to a talus field. Climb up the talus, following cairns, to the rock wall. Head left on a path next to the wall, and turn right up the hill on a steep dirt path below the east face. After a few minutes, the prominent east arete (Toe The Line) will loom above you on the right.
Continue up a bit past the east arete, and then traverse right on a dirt ledge to get to the start of the east face routes. This ledge is exposed, so be careful. You might want to gear up before traversing out on the ledge. There are belay anchors on the ledge at the start of every route.
This approach takes about 15 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sport Land
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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