Sport Land Rock Climbing
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Per: Katherine Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21 - Boulder Canyon climbing area reopens after unsuccessful nesting season.
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Outstanding routes include Stayin' Alive, Sidekick, and Tag Team.
The routes in Sport Land were intentionally created as sport climbs, to provide an area for moderate, multi-pitch routes where only quickdraws are needed. Some of the routes can also be protected with trad gear, either partially or totally (Total Eclipse, Sidekick, Stayin' Alive). If you prefer to place gear, bring your trad rack and see how many bolts you can skip. If you prefer to clip bolts, bring your quickdraws. Either way, have fun climbing!
The east face of Tonnere Tower gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon, making it a good afternoon/early evening destination on hotter days, and a good morning destination on cooler days.
There are six two-pitch sport routes and two one-pitch sport routes here, ranging in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.11. There are two trad routes here as well: a 5.6 corner with a wide crack (Nick of Time) and a 5.9 hand crack pitch on the upper wall (Clean Sweep).
The routes from left to right:
0. Up and Left - Lone Unknown Route, 10-, 1p, 65', bolts.
1. Toe The Line, 10, 2p, bolts. Arete on east face.
2. Generous Donation, 11-, 1p, bolts. Headwall left of P2 of 1.
3. Tag Team, 10+, 2p, bolts. Slabs and overhangs right of 1.
4. Total Eclipse, 10-, 2p, bolts. Line R of 3.
5. Sidekick, 10+, 2p, bolts. Face right of 4.
6. Nick Of Time, 6, 1p, gear. Corner with wide crack.
7. Hard Times, 11=, 1p, bolts. Steep face starting partway up 6/8.
8. Face Off, 8, 1p, bolts. Face right of 6
9. Stayin' Alive, 10-, 2p. bolts. Arete right of 8.
10. Clean Sweep, 9, 1p, gear. Cracks right of P2 of 9.
Once across the creek, go to the tree on the far side of the tyrolean, and follow a path up left through the woods to a talus field. Climb up the talus, following cairns, to the rock wall. Head left on a path next to the wall, and turn right up the hill on a steep dirt path below the east face. After a few minutes, the prominent east arete (Toe The Line) will loom above you on the right.
Continue up a bit past the east arete, and then traverse right on a dirt ledge to get to the start of the east face routes. This ledge is exposed, so be careful. You might want to gear up before traversing out on the ledge. There are belay anchors on the ledge at the start of every route.
This approach takes about 15 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sport Land
Days w Precip