Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: L. Bear, Pink; "Tonnere Seth"; support from Smalls, Mr. Fit, Hawt, & Sponsored, and CFB
Page Views: 629 total · 45/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Oct 10, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening Details

Description

Begin on 6H4D, but at the headwall, stay left past three bolts on thin, continuous terrain. Climb a power crux at bolt 8 after the rest, make a hard clip, and solve a technical and redpoint crux on the thin, cryptic traverse then layback up the leaning "5.10 corner" past bolt 10. Finish right to shared anchors with 6H4D.

This ascends excellent rock on the headwall and has uncertain moves in a wild position. It is a very sustained and involved pitch for Boulder Canyon...not the usual V8 to a ledge to 5.11 crapola. Shade after 2 p.m.

Extendo slings and long draws are helpful in spots for rope management and ease of clipping. I am not sure on the grade, but this felt harder than Mordred and maybe as hard as The Agony and the Ecstasy at Security Risk—the cruxes on this one are easier, but they are also at bolts 8 and 9 instead of right off the deck.

"Would you climb me? I'd climb me. I'd climb me hard. I'd climb me so hard."

Location

Clip the first 7 bolts of 6H4D, then stay left on the gently overhanging headwall.

Protection

10 bolts.

Photos

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