Type: Trad, Sport, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Ron Olsen, Bruno Haché, and Ken Cangi, 8/07
Page Views: 4,457 total · 29/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 20, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

Local Hero is a mixed route that starts right above the creek, with fun slab climbing on the first pitch, and a neat roof and airy arete on the second pitch. It ascends the right side of the prominent pillar on the north face, finishing up just right of Showtime. This is one of the best routes on the crag; don't miss it!

Start at the base of Creekside, by a gully, just above the creek.

P1: Start up rock on the left side of the gully, then stem up the gully to the first bolt on the right wall. Clip the bolt and move onto the wall. Make some tricky moves (9+) past the second and third bolts. Continue up face and cracks and move left to a steeper headwall. Climb straight up from here to a ledge by a pine tree and a two-bolt anchor. 5.9+, 100'.

P2: Step right from the anchor onto an arete. Clip a bolt and move up to the right side of a roof. Traverse left above the roof to a slab. Climb the slab (fun moves!) past three more bolts to a small roof with a hand crack. Get pro in the crack (#1 or #2 Camalot), step up and clip a bolt above the roof, and crank over the lip (10a; easier if you're tall). Continue up face and cracks, heading toward the arete on the right. Climb the arete to the top of the pinnacle, and a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Border Crossing and The B Boys). 5.10a, 110'.

Descent: Rappel 95' straight down to the anchor on The B Boys. Rappel 110' from here to the gully at the start. A 60m rope works with a little bit of easy downclimbing.

Location

At the gully at the base area of Creekside.

Protection

P1: 5 bolts and gear to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 8 bolts and gear to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.

Photos