Type: | Sport, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 7/9/07 |
Page Views: | 20,730 total · 97/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned on Jul 4, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Buried Treasure is a fun, moderate 2-pitch sport route on Treasure Wall. It is the easiest multi-pitch sport route on the crag, and is a great first multi-pitch outing for newer climbers.
After completing Buried Treasure, you can continue up the final pitch of Stayin' Alive (10a) for a fun, 3-pitch sport route to the top of Tonnere Tower. This variation is called Buried Alive. See ?beta photo?.
Buried Treasure was intentionally created as a sport route, to provide an easy multi-pitch clip-up for newer climbers. In many places, it can also be protected with trad gear. If you prefer to place gear, bring your trad rack and see how many bolts you can skip. If you prefer to clip bolts, bring your quickdraws.
Take the Treasure Wall approach, and go uphill about 60' to a slabby face just left of a huge left-facing dihedral. The route starts on this slabby face.
P1: Climb up easy rock to the first bolt. Stem off the dihedral to the right past the first two bolts (5.9). The rock is a little friable in this area, so be careful. A more difficult variation climbs the thin face directly without stemming (5.10a). Continue up and work left onto an arete. Climb up a steep exposed face, with a cool crux at the 7th and 8th bolts. The easiest line steps up left and traverses back right (5.9). A harder variation climbs straight up past these bolts (5.10). Continue up to the anchor on a small pedestal. 5.9 to 5.10, 95', 10 bolts.
P2: Traverse right from the pedestal, step up to clip the first bolt, and crank up to a stance (5.7). Angle up right to a steeper face by the 3rd bolt. Make some thin face moves up and right (5.8). Continue up right to an airy arete. You could also go up the gully and face left of the arete, but the arete is more fun. Climb the easy but exposed arete, past some unusual rock, and angle left to the anchor. This anchor is the starting anchor for Clean Sweep. 5.8, 75', 6 bolts.
P3 - Sport finish: Buried Alive ***: continue with the final pitch of Stayin' Alive (5.10a, 95', 13 bolts), for a 3-pitch sport route to the top of Tonnere Tower. Angle a bit left to get to the first bolt of Stayin' Alive from the anchor atop Buried Treasure. A longer runner or two are helpful if you do this. You could also move the belay 15' left to the regular Stayin' Alive anchor; see ?beta photo?. To descend, rappel 95' back to the anchor atop Buried Treasure.
P3 - Trad finish: If you brought a trad rack, you can finish on Clean Sweep (5.9, gear).To descend, rappel 90' back to the anchor atop Buried Treasure.
Descents from the top of Buried Treasure:
a. Two rappels (70' and 95') back to the start. Angle the first rappel a bit to the left to get back to the anchor atop the first pitch. After the second rappel, pull the rope from the left to keep the rope from landing on a stump in the corner on the right, 40' off the ground.
b. If you want to do more climbs on the east face, you can do a single 95' rappel from the Stayin' Alive p1 anchor back to the start of Face Off/Nick Of Time.
After completing Buried Treasure, you can continue up the final pitch of Stayin' Alive (10a) for a fun, 3-pitch sport route to the top of Tonnere Tower. This variation is called Buried Alive. See ?beta photo?.
Buried Treasure was intentionally created as a sport route, to provide an easy multi-pitch clip-up for newer climbers. In many places, it can also be protected with trad gear. If you prefer to place gear, bring your trad rack and see how many bolts you can skip. If you prefer to clip bolts, bring your quickdraws.
Take the Treasure Wall approach, and go uphill about 60' to a slabby face just left of a huge left-facing dihedral. The route starts on this slabby face.
P1: Climb up easy rock to the first bolt. Stem off the dihedral to the right past the first two bolts (5.9). The rock is a little friable in this area, so be careful. A more difficult variation climbs the thin face directly without stemming (5.10a). Continue up and work left onto an arete. Climb up a steep exposed face, with a cool crux at the 7th and 8th bolts. The easiest line steps up left and traverses back right (5.9). A harder variation climbs straight up past these bolts (5.10). Continue up to the anchor on a small pedestal. 5.9 to 5.10, 95', 10 bolts.
P2: Traverse right from the pedestal, step up to clip the first bolt, and crank up to a stance (5.7). Angle up right to a steeper face by the 3rd bolt. Make some thin face moves up and right (5.8). Continue up right to an airy arete. You could also go up the gully and face left of the arete, but the arete is more fun. Climb the easy but exposed arete, past some unusual rock, and angle left to the anchor. This anchor is the starting anchor for Clean Sweep. 5.8, 75', 6 bolts.
P3 - Sport finish: Buried Alive ***: continue with the final pitch of Stayin' Alive (5.10a, 95', 13 bolts), for a 3-pitch sport route to the top of Tonnere Tower. Angle a bit left to get to the first bolt of Stayin' Alive from the anchor atop Buried Treasure. A longer runner or two are helpful if you do this. You could also move the belay 15' left to the regular Stayin' Alive anchor; see ?beta photo?. To descend, rappel 95' back to the anchor atop Buried Treasure.
P3 - Trad finish: If you brought a trad rack, you can finish on Clean Sweep (5.9, gear).To descend, rappel 90' back to the anchor atop Buried Treasure.
Descents from the top of Buried Treasure:
a. Two rappels (70' and 95') back to the start. Angle the first rappel a bit to the left to get back to the anchor atop the first pitch. After the second rappel, pull the rope from the left to keep the rope from landing on a stump in the corner on the right, 40' off the ground.
b. If you want to do more climbs on the east face, you can do a single 95' rappel from the Stayin' Alive p1 anchor back to the start of Face Off/Nick Of Time.
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