Avg: 2.7 from 317 votes
|Type:||Sport, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 7/9/07|
|Page Views:||18,269 total · 105/month|
|Shared By:||Orphaned on Jul 4, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
After completing Buried Treasure, you can continue up the final pitch of Stayin' Alive (10a) for a fun, 3-pitch sport route to the top of Tonnere Tower. This variation is called Buried Alive. See ?beta photo?.
Buried Treasure was intentionally created as a sport route, to provide an easy multi-pitch clip-up for newer climbers. In many places, it can also be protected with trad gear. If you prefer to place gear, bring your trad rack and see how many bolts you can skip. If you prefer to clip bolts, bring your quickdraws.
Take the Treasure Wall approach, and go uphill about 60' to a slabby face just left of a huge left-facing dihedral. The route starts on this slabby face.
P1: Climb up easy rock to the first bolt. Stem off the dihedral to the right past the first two bolts (5.9). The rock is a little friable in this area, so be careful. A more difficult variation climbs the thin face directly without stemming (5.10a). Continue up and work left onto an arete. Climb up a steep exposed face, with a cool crux at the 7th and 8th bolts. The easiest line steps up left and traverses back right (5.9). A harder variation climbs straight up past these bolts (5.10). Continue up to the anchor on a small pedestal. 5.9 to 5.10, 95', 10 bolts.
P2: Traverse right from the pedestal, step up to clip the first bolt, and crank up to a stance (5.7). Angle up right to a steeper face by the 3rd bolt. Make some thin face moves up and right (5.8). Continue up right to an airy arete. You could also go up the gully and face left of the arete, but the arete is more fun. Climb the easy but exposed arete, past some unusual rock, and angle left to the anchor. This anchor is the starting anchor for Clean Sweep. 5.8, 75', 6 bolts.
P3 - Sport finish: Buried Alive ***: continue with the final pitch of Stayin' Alive (5.10a, 95', 13 bolts), for a 3-pitch sport route to the top of Tonnere Tower. Angle a bit left to get to the first bolt of Stayin' Alive from the anchor atop Buried Treasure. A longer runner or two are helpful if you do this. You could also move the belay 15' left to the regular Stayin' Alive anchor; see ?beta photo?. To descend, rappel 95' back to the anchor atop Buried Treasure.
P3 - Trad finish: If you brought a trad rack, you can finish on Clean Sweep (5.9, gear).To descend, rappel 90' back to the anchor atop Buried Treasure.
Descents from the top of Buried Treasure:
a. Two rappels (70' and 95') back to the start. Angle the first rappel a bit to the left to get back to the anchor atop the first pitch. After the second rappel, pull the rope from the left to keep the rope from landing on a stump in the corner on the right, 40' off the ground.
b. If you want to do more climbs on the east face, you can do a single 95' rappel from the Stayin' Alive p1 anchor back to the start of Face Off/Nick Of Time.
Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.