The Garden Rock Climbing
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Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Outstanding routes include Before The Deluge, Crackdown, Showtime, and The B Boys.
The leftmost route (Just Do It) has its own anchor. The remaining routes (Fine Fir, Storm Warning, Before The Deluge, and Crackdown) share a 2-bolt anchor, on a pedestal about 65' up.
This common anchor is the starting point for four more routes: Showtime, Dutch Treat, Border Crossing, and The B Boys. All of these routes are mixed, and scale a beautiful, exposed pinnacle with great position. The hardest line in this area is Smooth Operator, 5.11+, which takes off after the first pitch of The B Boys.
From the start of Crackdown, a steep dirt path heads down and right to the Creekside area and Local Hero.
Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.
Routes from left to right:
19. Just Do It, 9, 1p, gear and 2 bolts. Face and cracks on the left side of the wall. Lowering anchor with hooks.
20. Fine Fir, 7, 1p, gear and 2 bolts. Climbs past a pine tree 15' up the wall.
21. Storm Warning, 10a, 1p, toprope. Face just right of Fine Fir.
22. Before The Deluge, 10a, 1p, 5 bolts. Bolted face in center of wall.
23. Crackdown, 9, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Finger crack on right side of wall.
Routes starting from the common anchor atop routes 20-23:
24. Showtime, 8+, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Arete on left side of pinnacle.
25. Dutch Treat, 8, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Starts on Showtime, and moves right to cracks in center of pinnacle.
26. Border Crossing, 8, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Starts on Showtime, and moves right to left-facing corner right of Dutch Treat.
27. The B Boys, 11, 2p, 4 bolts and gear. Steep face, then technical stemming corner and roofs, merging with Border Crossing.
28. Smooth Operator, 11+, 1p, 8 bolts and gear. Starts after p1 of The B Boys and merges with Local Hero.
Once across the creek, go to the tree on the far side of the tyrolean, and follow a path up left through the woods.
Take a sharp right just before the talus field on a level path heading upstream. Walk past several pine trees to a secluded clearing after 50'.
This approach takes about 5 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Garden
Days w Precip