Type: Trad, Sport, 155 ft (47 m), 2 pitches
FA: Bob D, Ron Olsen & Ken Cangi, 8/07.
Page Views: 4,486 total · 25/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 18, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2022 Details

Description

Very cool route that starts right out of the creek on the lower north face of the tower.

P1: Step left from the starting tub and stem up the bolted corner/seam and gain the face. Cool climbing leads to a ledge and two-bolt anchor, shared with Los Pinos. 5.9+, 85'.

P2: Step left and tip-toe up the slab past four bolts, gain a ledge and thin crack (green Alien, small blue Camalot). Climb the crack and continue up to a two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks, shared with Los Pinos. 5.8+, 70'. Lower from here back to the top of P1.

Descent: From the top of P1, rappel 85' back to the start. Try to keep the rope out of the water when you pull it.

For a fun outing: Do the first two pitches of Spirit on the Water and the second pitch of Los Pinos, and rap off. These are the three best pitches in this area.

Location

From the start of Local Hero, down by the creek, walk upstream along the edge of the creek about 50', to a natural tub.

This route is accessible only when the water level is low (late summer to mid-spring).

Protection

P1: 7 bolts and purple (#.5) and green (#.75) Camalots. 2-bolt anchor shared with Los Pinos.
P2: 4 bolts and small cams -- a green Alien, purple, blue (small) Camalots. 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks shared with Los Pinos.

Photos