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Routes in Creekside

Creekside Cruise T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curtain Call T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Liquid Therapy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Local Hero T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Los Pinos (The Pines) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spirit on the Water T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 155 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob D, Ron Olsen & Ken Cangi, 8/07.
Page Views: 3,469 total · 26/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 18, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Very cool route that starts right out of the creek on the lower north face of the tower.

P1: Step left from the starting tub and stem up the bolted corner/seam and gain the face. Cool climbing leads to a ledge and two-bolt anchor, shared with Los Pinos. 5.9+, 85'.

P2: Step left and tip-toe up the slab past four bolts, gain a ledge and thin crack (green Alien, small blue Camalot). Climb the crack and continue up to a two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks, shared with Los Pinos. 5.8+, 70'. Lower from here back to the top of P1.

Descent: From the top of P1, rappel 85' back to the start. Try to keep the rope out of the water when you pull it.

For a fun outing: Do the first two pitches of Spirit on the Water and the second pitch of Los Pinos, and rap off. These are the three best pitches in this area.

Location

From the start of Local Hero, down by the creek, walk upstream along the edge of the creek about 50', to a natural tub.

This route is accessible only when the water level is low (late summer to mid-spring).

Protection

P1: 7 bolts and purple (#.5) and green (#.75) Camalots. 2-bolt anchor shared with Los Pinos.
P2: 4 bolts and small cams -- a green Alien, purple, blue (small) Camalots. 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks shared with Los Pinos.

Photos

Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.9
I think the first pitch of this route is one of the better pitches on Tonnere Tower. Sep 22, 2007
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.9
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.9
You can place a nut between the second and third bolts if you so desire. This route is quite slick if it is at all wet. May 15, 2008
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Fun route. The only route I have seen that has a two bolt anchor in the rock at the bottom so your belayer doesn't go for a swim while you are climbing! Sep 8, 2008
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9
With all the trees and stuff, this seemed vaguely reminiscent of the scruffier bits of Borrowdale (apart from the bolts!). Sticking closely to the line of the bolts up the slab, P2 seemed just as hard as P1. Oct 16, 2010
E Ann
Colorado
E Ann   Colorado
This is a fun route, but it is a little strange to be bolted for mixed trad sport. After the overhang on P1, it starts to get run out. Slab = ? Gear. I used the same 0.4 a few times, back cleaned it, and placed one 0.75 Camalot. P2 protects fine with smaller cams/ nuts. Jul 8, 2018
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
Veer right after the bolts run out, away from the flakes, to stay on route. Alternatively, go left and up over the flakes (BoCan 5.8) to reach the anchors for Creekside Cruise or Liquid Therapy. Aug 14, 2018
Though the climbing is significantly easier (and vegatated) above P2, I really enjoyed P3 as you gain an open arete / flake system where the whole canyon opens up. Great spot! Sep 9, 2018

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