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Routes in The Garden

B Boys, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Before The Deluge S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Border Crossing T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackdown T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dutch Treat T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fine Fir T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Just Do It T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Showtime T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smooth Operator T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Storm Warning TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bob D & Bruno Haché, 8/07
Page Views: 2,075 total, 17/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 20, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Short crux sections on both pitches two and three. The technical stemming on the last pitch is really fun!

P1: Start by climbing Crackdown, Before The Deluge, or Fine Fir to their common anchor on a pedestal about 65' up. Crackdown is the suggested start.

P2: Traverse right from the belay to a thin seam/crack...place thin gear and then clip a bolt. Make a hard move to a good edge/flake, then climb up and right to a two-bolt belay. 5.10+, 50'.

P3: Climb up the shallow corner above the belay to a steep corner with three overhangs. Stem past three bolts, turn the final overhang, and reach the upper wall. Angle right and climb a moderate left-facing corner and cracks to a two-bolt anchor. 5.10+, 95'.

Descent: Rap 95' back to the anchor below the roof, then 110' down a gully to the start of Local Hero. A 60m rope works with a bit of easy downclimbing. Go up a steep path to the left to get back to The Garden.

Alternate descent: You can angle the second rappel sharply to the left to reach The Garden after 95'.

Location

The Garden area. Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.

Protection

P2: 1 bolt and thin gear (small cams). 2-bolt anchor.
P3: 3 bolts and gear up to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
Does anybody do the 1st pitch? It was licheny AF, desperate, and slippery. Even after getting the flake over the lip, it's lichen everywhere. Sketchy! Aug 13, 2016
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Pretty fun stem problem and a little more sustained than I was expecting (though there is only one distinct crux). I think it would go on gear pretty easily. There is gear by all three of the bolts (in order - yellow Alien, RP, yellow/orange Alien, yellow Alien, hand-sized cam)... that said, I'm not complaining about having them there. Jul 15, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10d
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10d
You certainly need to know how to stem to be successful on the 2nd pitch. The 1st pitch looks difficult, but good holds appear when you need them. Aug 4, 2013
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10d
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10d
Interesting 2nd pitch! The bolts are well placed. It looks like a key hold might come out. (There is a loose, triangular block above the roof that creates a good hand-hold.) I wonder if this would go at a lesser grade if someone cleaned the crack above the roof?

I think this one could go trad if you were ambitious. Maybe some day. Oct 18, 2007