Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bob D & Bruno Haché, 8/07
Page Views: 2,418 total · 16/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 20, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Short crux sections on both pitches two and three. The technical stemming on the last pitch is really fun!

P1: Start by climbing Crackdown, Before The Deluge, or Fine Fir to their common anchor on a pedestal about 65' up. Crackdown is the suggested start.

P2: Traverse right from the belay to a thin seam/crack...place thin gear and then clip a bolt. Make a hard move to a good edge/flake, then climb up and right to a two-bolt belay. 5.10+, 50'.

P3: Climb up the shallow corner above the belay to a steep corner with three overhangs. Stem past three bolts, turn the final overhang, and reach the upper wall. Angle right and climb a moderate left-facing corner and cracks to a two-bolt anchor. 5.10+, 95'.

Descent: Rap 95' back to the anchor below the roof, then 110' down a gully to the start of Local Hero. A 60m rope works with a bit of easy downclimbing. Go up a steep path to the left to get back to The Garden.

Alternate descent: You can angle the second rappel sharply to the left to reach The Garden after 95'.

Location

The Garden area. Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.

Protection

P2: 1 bolt and thin gear (small cams). 2-bolt anchor.
P3: 3 bolts and gear up to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor.

Photos