Creekside Rock Climbing
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Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, firstname.lastname@example.org, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Outstanding routes include Local Hero and Spirit on the Water.
All the routes in this area are mixed, and require gear in addition to the bolts.
Two routes start just above the creek: Curtain Call, which climbs a slab and merges with Showtime on the second pitch; and Local Hero, a great two-pitch route which ascends the right side of the Showtime pinnacle.
Four routes start right by the creek, and are only accessible when the water level is low (late summer to mid-spring): Creekside Cruise, Liquid Therapy, Spirit on the Water, and Los Pinos (The Pines). Los Pinos can be done as a two-pitch route, or as a four-pitch route which goes all the way to the summit.
From the start of Curtain Call and Local Hero, a dirt path heads left and up to The Garden.
Routes from left to right:
29. Curtain Call, 8+, 2p, gear and bolts. Slab and arete.
30. Local Hero, 10a, 2p, bolts and gear. Slab, roof, and exposed arete.
31. Creekside Cruise, 7, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Cracks, corner, roof, flake.
The following routes start right by the creek, and are not accessible when the water level is very high (from mid-May to the end of July):
32. Liquid Therapy, 10, 1p, gear and 2 bolts. Bulge, corner, and cracks left of Spirit on the Water.
33. Spirit on the Water, 9+, 2p, bolts and gear. Stemming corner, face, and slab.
34. Los Pinos (The Pines), 9, 5p, gear and bolts. Face and cracks. Can be climbed all the way to the summit.
Once across the creek, hike upstream from the tyrolean along the creek for about 100', to a clearing just before the rock wall comes all the way down to the water. Local Hero starts here. Creekside Cruise starts on a boulder by the creek about 30' right of Local Hero. Liquid Therapy starts 10' farther right at a slick bulge. Spirit on the Water and Los Pinos start another 10' upstream at an alcove carved out of the rock by the rushing creek waters.
This approach takes about 5 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Creekside
Days w Precip