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Routes in Lower Capitalist Crag

Aries S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cheap Labor T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Contra S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Downsizing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flexin' Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High Tides S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lunchmoney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mounty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stroh's S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Strohs Lite S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Venture Capital S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vitamin-N S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Darren Mabe and Steve Grigel, April 2002
Page Views: 3,632 total, 19/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on May 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

EDIT: Start about 30 feet left of Lunchmoney along the ledge system. Climb the crack system that trends right and then up the jagged, left-facing flake. At the top of the flake, the angle eases and a few slabby moves, protected by pin, lead to a loose ledge. Continue up the left side of the dihedral (5.6) to anchors of Vitamin-N or Aries, 100 feet.

This is a pretty decent route as far as moderate Clear Creek trad climbs go.

Protection

EDIT: 1 fixed pin, Standard rack, emphasis on TCUs and a few small nuts. Some of the placements are tricky to find, but can be bomber. A few runners help with the drag.
Rob Meringolo
Denver, CO
 
Rob Meringolo   Denver, CO
 
Tricky pro, some face climbing through discontinuous cracks, makes for a nice CCC lead on gear. Go get it! Jul 26, 2014
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
  5.8-
ChefMattThaner   Lakewood, co
  5.8-
Definitely agree the protection was a little less than obvious but very solid when you do find it. I was attempting to use only nuts but ended up having to use an orange Mastercam for my first placement in the horizontal crack/pod about ten feet up from the belay bolt. After that, nuts were all I used but I did run it out a bit before the fixed pin, because I did not bring a #3 or #4 with me. Easy moves, great hands but stiff for CCC 5.7s. Oct 27, 2013
The pro is there but tricky to place and a little funky. The leader should be solid at the grade. Lots of slings help. Aug 16, 2012
slim

  5.7
slim    
  5.7
For the grade and being a gear route in CCC, this is a really good route. Very good rock quality, adequate protection but fairly engaging, fairly consistent at the grade throughout the length. Really fun. The added pin up high seemed like a pretty good addition. Nice find. Jul 29, 2010
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.8 PG13
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.8 PG13
8 years later, and I still think it is hard to protect the crux crack. I used a #1 cam up high, but it felt insecure. The good news is that there are bomber handholds once one makes the insecure move.
A #3 or 4 cam at 10 feet works well, too. Jun 16, 2010
Andrew Bradberry
Golden, CO
  5.8
Andrew Bradberry   Golden, CO
  5.8
I was glad to see that fixed pin! Just like the FA said the pro is hard to find, but pretty good. I'm pretty sure that crux was protected with a really good #3 Camalot, and there's a couple good stoppers in that dihedral near the top. Worth it to bring the gear considering the short approach! Mar 23, 2010
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.8
A fun pitch. I used pro from a green Alien to a #3 Camalot. The steep crack in the middle of the pitch protects with a #.5 and a #.75 Camalot.

After the slab move by the pin, I angled left to a corner with four bolts on the right wall. I clipped the first two bolts (these are actually on the route Aries), then went left to the anchor shared with Vitamin N.

There is a good ledge at this anchor, so it is easy to belay here, bring up your partner, then rappel. Sep 11, 2005
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.8
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.8
The route seemed stiff for 5.7, especially for shorter folks. There is one slopey move early where a #3.5 Camalot or #4 Friend is nice. Otherwise, nothing bigger than a #0.75 Camalot is needed. Jun 3, 2004
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Casey and I put in a Fixe 2 bolt rap anchor at the top of Mounty. Is easily accessible from the base of Contra. 90 feet to the ledge where Mounty starts (by a lone small juniper). Consider a belay anchor on the exposed ledge at the start -- large cam (#3 Camalot) / med hex. Jul 14, 2003
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
  5.7+
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
  5.7+
With permission from the FA, I added a pin to protect the cruxy insecure step left on to the slab. It is now well protected for the entire pitch, even though the gear is small, it is still bomber. Without the pin your feet were well above your last piece of small pro when you pull the insecure moves. Now the protection is consistent.

The route has cleaned up nicely and it has very enjoyable climbing that provides an excellent warm-up and approach pitch to Contra. Dec 19, 2002
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
We didn't think so either, hence the pro description. Nov 11, 2002
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.8 PG13
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.8 PG13
I thought that this was not an easily protected 5.7! Nov 7, 2002