Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Capitalist Crag

Aries S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cheap Labor T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Contra S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Downsizing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flexin' Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High Tides S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lunchmoney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mounty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stroh's S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Strohs Lite S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Venture Capital S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vitamin-N S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Mary Zuvela, 2004
Page Views: 2,378 total, 16/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jun 28, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


46 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route starts to the left of the approach ramp for Stroh's, and climbs through some broken choss for many clips (EDIT: 5.7), passes the Stroh's approach ledges, and finishes on the north arete to the right of Stroh's. Lower 100'(?) to the ground.

The last 15' were entertaining, where you finally get to quality stone (5.8-5.9). Be careful of loose rock.

Protection

12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.10a/b
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.10a/b
As a forewarning, this crag was my first foray into CCC. My partner and I both routinely climb 10a and 10b in Boulder Canyon, and neither of us had a clue what to do at the upper crux. Perhaps we missed the sequence, but after we both got spit off and left a bail biner, neither of us thought this could possibly be 5.9 or 5.9+.

All that combined with the definitely not 5.5 beginning and ledge in the middle, and neither of us really enjoyed this one. Jan 18, 2014
A. Bandos
Broomfield
5.10a/b
A. Bandos   Broomfield
5.10a/b
I have to agree with the last two comments.

Bottom is not chossy, start is easy but not a walk in the park 5.5 as the book says. The ledge is unfortunate, but I wouldn't write this climb off for that.

The first 7 bolts are 5.9ish, but the ending is thin with no feet. Definitely felt more like 10b for a few moves. Oct 26, 2013
JonW
  5.10b
JonW  
  5.10b
I don't get the description of this route (on this page or in the guidebook). The opening moves felt like 5.8 and were not chossy (perhaps a little sandy). The crux towards the top on thin, crimpy edges felt like other 10b's in the canyon. Jul 25, 2013
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
  5.10a
Note that the anchor on the right has a spinning hanger. I hand tightened the nut back down but didn't have any other tools on me.

I thought this was a fun climb except for 3 moves from below the second to last bolt to the good holds above the last bolt. It really pushes the grade past 5.9+ imo (10b?). Half a finger pad crimps with few feet and then slopers by the last bolt. Not really a good hold to clip from.

I thought the bottom of the route was pretty cool maybe 5.7 or 5.8 climbing with a bit of lay back at the start. The middle section is 5.4ish climbing but still kinda fun as you build up to the top.

A couple draws need a pretty good length runner to stop rope drag as well.

Enjoy. Jun 3, 2012
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.10b
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.10b
Opening moves more like 5.7 than 5.5. top is 10b IMHO. Bottom is not so chossy, maybe it has cleaned up over the last few years? Some loose rock on ledge. Jun 16, 2010
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.10b
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.10b
Has the bottom portion of this route changed? I don't get the talk of a 5.5 chossy/worthless section below the 3rd class ramp. Bottom section seemed at least 5.7, almost vertical, and decent climbing. I also thought that the thin, face climbing past the last couple bolts (razor crimpers with not much for feet) felt at least 5.10a relative to other CCC routes. But maybe 9+ by older standards. Jun 16, 2010
Brett Bauer
  5.10
Brett Bauer  
  5.10
I feel this climb lends itself to a 2 bolt crux starting at 5.9 and finishing @ 5.10 then run to anchors. The ledge detracts from the climb, but so what? When everything is backed up (Lunchmoney), it's a good climb to do and away from the masses! Aug 23, 2009
dan scales
Denver, CO
  5.9+
dan scales   Denver, CO
  5.9+
This thing is Way no fun. Top is razor blade crimps, no feet, on slab bulge. Watch out for the broken glass (really) all over the crag area. Apr 24, 2009
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
The name of this route is "Downsizing", 10c, 12 bolts, first ascent by Vaino Kodas and Mary Zuvela, 2004.

See vainokodas.com/climbing/cor… Sep 11, 2005