Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Casey Bernal and Darren Mabe, 8/03
Page Views: 4,003 total · 22/month
Shared By: Casey Bernal on Aug 30, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

This climb is on the Lower Capitalist area between Lunchmoney and Mounty. The first two bolts are obvious at a bulge 15 feet above the main ledge. Place the bomber #7 stopper at the back of the small ledge just above the second bolt and place the yellow Alien just before the fourth bolt. Similar to Lunchmoney but with slightly harder and shorter cruxes.

Protection

Route Status as of 5/04: 8 protection bolts and a two bolt anchor. A couple mid and long slings are nice to reduce wandering rope drag.

Retro-Optional Gear: (#7 stopper or green Alien between bolts 2&3) AND (#9 or #10 stopper or yellow or red Alien at 4th bolt).

Photos

I don't think this route will get many ascents since the prevailing ethic in Clear Creek does not include gear requirements. Oct 6, 2003
Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.10a
Casey Bernal   Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.10a
Dear ac, popular does not mean better. Oct 6, 2003
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.10a
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.10a
The first gear placement mentioned is not necessary; however, the second placement is nice to have. You do a couple thin moves above the yellow alien to gain the bolt. A fall would be disasterous. Fun locks at the top (wish there were more)! Oct 6, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
A few more notes on the route description:

Above the first two bolts, the climbing is not hard getting onto the ledge where you can clip the 3rd bolt. The small cam placement 10 feet below the 4th bolt is pretty handy to avoid an ugly fall.

The traverse moves onto the low angle stance at 4th bolt are brilliant (5.9). The crack (crux) leading past the last two bolts is a quick little test of finger-tip crack technique. I bolted this finish a while ago, but took me and Casey's collaboration to develop the unique start. We completed it on Labor Day weekend 2003. Oct 6, 2003
Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.10a
Casey Bernal   Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.10a
Recently, according to the logic of the first AC who commented on this route, someone added a bolt next to the bomber cam placement between the third and fourth bolts. Now if you run it out between the second and third bolts, it is a pure sport climb. May 20, 2004
Drew Allan
Denver/Aspen
 
Drew Allan   Denver/Aspen
 
This route is nice addition to the lower wall of Capitalist Crag. Now, there are two moderates next to each other that allow extra mileage for your pleasure. No need for gear on the run out discussed above; it is minimal and on moderate terrain. Both routes are either 9+ or 10a. You can decide. The fifth clip is a bit of a reach but you can step down and make the traverse easier on lower footholds. A couple of locks later bring you to the belay. Jun 16, 2004
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.10b
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.10b
A bit harder than Lunch Money. Leo Paik and I TR'ed this line in 10/02 and called it "Change". However, kudos to Darren for equipping the route, and others in this area, that does not get the road noise that is ubiquitous elsewhere in CCC. Jul 10, 2004
richard magill
  5.10b
richard magill  
  5.10b
Nice line - very continuous - great fun. Jul 16, 2004
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.10a
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.10a
Nice thoughtful line. A single small TCR was useful between clips 2 and 3. Nothing is really needed further up. This is a very nice addition. Jul 29, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
Cheap Labor has a decidedly different feel from Lunchmoney, and very interesting moves. Jul 31, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
A sustained and interesting pitch. The crux crack near the top of the pitch is pumpy; get the sequence right the first time! Sep 11, 2005
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Greetings, we climbed this route on Sunday July 6th. Very fun, but I am confused regarding info on trad pro needed? Has there been additional bolts placed? Anyway, everyone in our party felt comfortable with existing fixed gear. Mr. Olsen is sooo right! Get the sequence correct or downclimb! Peace. Jul 8, 2008
Shawn Mitchell
Broomfield
  5.10b
Shawn Mitchell   Broomfield
  5.10b
Maybe I was off route, but I felt the crux was some thin crimps and digits up and left just before the traverse and mantle to the final fingerlock headwall. Aug 6, 2009
Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.10a
Casey Bernal   Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.10a
Shawn-
I think there are two ways to do the moves past the 5th bolt. 1) You can go up and slightly left, utilizing the micro crimps and balancy footwork. This seems to be the most popular way to go. Or 2) you can traverse straight right under the bolt till you are below the headwall crack-crux-thingy and then go straight up. This way seems to have better holds though it is much less obvious. I have done it both ways many times and certainly prefer #2 (please don't take this out of context...).

Is there such thing as off route? Aug 6, 2009
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Maybe I was having a really off day. I'm pretty solid 11, and this didn't feel anything like low 10 to anyone I climbed it with. Jun 20, 2010
Todd Ra
Golden
Todd Ra   Golden
Climbed this today not knowing what it was.... Really surprised to see people calling it 10a by Clear Creek standards. The crux is short but definitely felt harder than low-10.
Felt very well protected as a sport route. Supplemental gear unnecessary. Sep 12, 2015
teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.10+
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.10+
Yeah, I climbed it with Todd. Didn't feel like a 10a at the crack unless I missed something major there. Sep 13, 2015
Arthur Wright
Denver, CO
  5.10b/c
Arthur Wright   Denver, CO
  5.10b/c
Felt a bit harder than most 10a's in CCC that I've done. The crux is pretty on par difficulty wise with the bottom of Aries (10c/d) nearby (but CL only has a few hard moves). Pretty fun route, but other than the finger-lock near the chains, it's pretty forgettable.

Also, definitely no gear needed between bolts. The runout between B2 and B3 is on really easy terrain and I'm pretty you would stay off the deck even if you fell. May 15, 2016
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.10c
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.10c
The finger crack crux felt pretty heady! I was sure if I greased off the slopers going for the clip above the crux I'd hit the slab below, so I squeezed really hard and thank God didn't have to test that theory. Maybe it would've been a clean fall, but I sure didn't want to be the one to find out! May 1, 2017
Greg Barnes
  5.10+
Greg Barnes  
  5.10+
Small greasy feet and reachy, not so great finger locks, 10d not 10a. If you're tall, strong, and have great edging shoes, then it could feel easier. I can see this being 10a before the feet got greased up (and I bet some small edges have become smaller). May 8, 2017
Josh Levell
Denver, CO
  5.10a/b PG13
Josh Levell   Denver, CO
  5.10a/b PG13
The route is so-so until the 3rd bolt, after which it's awesome. The traverse to the 4th bolt is the intended line (based on the FA's comment above), but it is possible to go straight up over the bulge. This is probably a .10dish move but really fun. I took a whipper after clipping the bolt on the crack and losing my finger lock. You won't hit the slab hard, so go for it! The crack is awesome climbing and seemed a bit hard for 5.10a, but maybe I was just shaky after the whip. Jul 8, 2018