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Routes in Lower Capitalist Crag

Aries S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cheap Labor T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Contra S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Downsizing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flexin' Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High Tides S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lunchmoney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mounty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stroh's S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Strohs Lite S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Venture Capital S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vitamin-N S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Darren Mabe
Page Views: 2,419 total, 14/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Oct 2, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Aries starts between Mounty and Cheap Labor at the Lower Capitalist area. Start from the ledge, opening with a devious, right leaning rail past the first 2 bolts to a bulge. A few thin moves past the 4th bolt (5.10) gets you exciting climbing just right of the Mounty flake.

Beeline to the shallow, stemming dihedral underneath the anchors.

Protection

10 protection bolts. Bring a few long draws for #6 and 7. 2 bolt rap anchor.

Caution

Addendum: if you happen to belay from the threaded hole below Cheap Labor, you may find your 60m rope slipping through your belay device just before you belay your partner to the ledge...40 feet above the river!

UPDATE

June 2005. This is no longer mixed route. It is fully bolted, 10 bolts.

July 9, 2009. The first two bolts have been moved a few feet to the left, making the grade more consistent with the rest of the route. Goes up the sloping rail.

Aug. 16, 2010. A belay bolt added.

Photos

Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
^A few longer draws should fix that, Jake. Jun 14, 2017
Jake Web
  5.10c
Jake Web  
  5.10c
A lot of rope drag on this route, I found. Jun 13, 2017
nate post
Silverthorne
  5.10
nate post   Silverthorne
  5.10
Thanks, Darren, for bolting so many great routes here on Capitalist.
This is my new favorite spot with Wall of the Nineties right up the road, and this crag is a little oasis from the drunken gamblers' bus route. Aries was not as good as the others, but I still enjoyed it and thought it was well worth doing at least once. The opening moves along the left-sloping rail were fun. 10b. May 25, 2013
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.10d
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.10d
Thought this was a great route. Starting left on the sloping rail is a little tricky, but fun. Did not feel height-dependent or unnatural; just thoughtful. Great route to access Contra above. Nov 8, 2010
Dan Holz
Denver, CO
  5.10d
Dan Holz   Denver, CO
  5.10d
I just tried this super-fun route for the first time last month but was a little confused by the contradictory ratings in the new guide book (marked as a 10a on the beta photo/11a on the route description). It felt like a solid 10d with a tricky start - but as stated in the book, it's certainly 'height dependent.' Oct 18, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Belay bolt added that serves Aries, Mounty, and Vitamin-N. Located near the small juniper. Wise to anchor in on these exposed ledges. Aug 16, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
This route confuses me. To start straight up the face following the bolt line is easily .11+, which then peters out into nice 5.10 climbing. If you use the sloping rail to the left, the bolts seem to far out right to be safe for clipping positions. I think that the two bolts moved over to the left a foot or two would keep this route sustained at the grade (.10+/11-), and a lot more fun for the many leaders who look up and think the route looks fun, but are dissuaded by the blank looking start and the trouble they see many a .12 climber having on the opening moves. I would suggest moving the bolts, or adding some, to the left of the existing ones so leaders at this grade can enjoy the climb. Jun 30, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
This route was "updated".

10 protection bolts and two bolt rap anchor on the ledge at 100'. Stay left getting to bolt 2, don't get too suckered by the face; use the sloping rail. This keeps the route at 5.10+/11-. Bring a long draw for bolt #6 and #7. Finishes up the face to the right of the Mounty dihedral. Jun 28, 2005
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.11b
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.11b
I found myself wondering why. The first twenty feet are interesting, but the real distinctness of the climb seems to peter out at that point. It works as a variation to either of the adjacent climbs, but neither really needs a more difficult start. Once again, a couple of TCUs will nicely get you to the third clip. Overall: okay with an interesting entry. Jul 29, 2004
6 feet of hard climbing just after the first bolt (ankle-threatening) followed by a bunch of easy climbing to the anchors.This route didn't do much for me - you'll get more climbing,more tricky moves, and more interesting stone from Cheap Labor or Lunchmoney, both of which are excellent. Jul 16, 2004
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.11c
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.11c
As Darren stated the best, finish is Mounty. The direct line would result in some bodily harm unless that piece was glued in by a miracle. The middle section is much easier, but a lot of fun. Oct 7, 2003