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Routes in Lower Capitalist Crag

Aries S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cheap Labor T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Contra S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Downsizing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flexin' Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High Tides S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lunchmoney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mounty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stroh's S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Strohs Lite S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Venture Capital S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vitamin-N S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brandon Patterson and Darren Mabe
Page Views: 9,433 total, 50/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Mar 31, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Approach as for Upper Capitalist, but instead of going uphill to the crag, go down the broken hill to the southeast. Lunchmoney is located roughly hundred yards upstream from Upper Capitalist Crag. The chains are obvious from this point. There is a belay bolt on the ledge at the start of the climb. Climb up the steep face, pull through weakness in the roof to easy ledge system. The last three clips on the upper wall is the crux on a beautiful smooth flake. Rap 100 feet to ground.

Protection

1 belay bolt on ledge, 9-11 protection bolts, and chains anchors.
Sarah G  
I agree with previous comments about being careful after the ledge. My belayer could not see or hear me after the ledge. Trying to clip the second clip I was short roped, given slack, foot slipped, and I decked on the ledge. As a beginner, I would think twice before attempting the crux above the ledge. Jul 24, 2017
Greg Barnes  
 
Feels like the reviews overhyped this route, I thought it was just OK, and the crux (the start of the lieback/fingers up high) has a bad fall, since you'll land on the slab and your belayer can't see you. Also seems a bit greasy there. I wouldn't put a 5.9 leader on this route. May 8, 2017
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
Great variety on this route! Even though I can lead 5.10, I found this one a serious climb for the leader. There are plenty of bolts, but some areas of sustained moves or where you really want to complete a clip so you can be protected. I wouldn't recommend this route for someone new to leading 5.9, but if you can already lead 5.9, this will be a good challenge. Jul 19, 2012
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
What a great crux!!!!
This route was exceptional. The beginning is sustained 5.7 or so and the bolts are well placed.

It was pumpy in parts, techy in parts, and all around entertaining. Even the beginner in our group had a great time on the lower section.

Do this route if you can get a chance!!! Oct 6, 2011
Per a few of the comments for those who are in belief that the belay box restricts view of the top of the climb, utilize the bolt with a clove hitch to allow you to get farther out. My buddy and I skipped the first bolt as you would hit the deck no matter what. That proved no big deal. The climb was great except the rain screwed us over at the flake. Love the rock, the views, and the climb. Definitely a must do! Aug 2, 2011
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
Nice! Can't wait to check it out. Aug 18, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+
Tonight I moved the last bolt down and right a couple feet, allowing a secure clipping stance thus minimizing the chance of blowing it and bouncing onto the slab.

Also added was a single belay bolt on the well worn dirt ledge a few feet left of the start of the route. This should help you safely lean out to see your leader make the final moves. Aug 16, 2010
Dale D
Parker, CO
  5.9+
Dale D   Parker, CO
  5.9+
I lead Five Finger Discount before leading Lunchmoney, and I do think Five finger discount required a tad more thinking, commitment above the bolts (last two), and balance. Jul 29, 2010
Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
 
Robert Buswold   Northglenn, CO
 
Yep, I agree with Ben - climbed it with him, and totally enjoyed it. It's nice to get back out and knock the rust off. Jul 29, 2010
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.9+
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.9+
Absolutely stellar route. Jul 29, 2010
Sarah Doyle
Lakewood, CO
Sarah Doyle   Lakewood, CO
I found belaying for my partner difficult on this climb. My partner was having a hard time on the upper section. I could not see him and could not distinguish what he was yelling... take, slack, clipping? I think this climb would be better as a two-pitch climb, with the second belay at the bottom of the upper section at the natural break in the climb. Apr 18, 2010
Andrew Bradberry
Golden, CO
  5.9
Andrew Bradberry   Golden, CO
  5.9
Those moves up top never get old! This one gets my vote for the best 5.9 in the canyon. I don't think the moves up top are 5.10 if you get the sequence dialed. Must do! Mar 23, 2010
Luke Childers
  5.9-
Luke Childers  
  5.9-
Great line. One of the best in the canyon at its grade. But I feel 9- is more fitting for this line. There is only two or three moves even in this grade at the top of the climb in the lay-back crack that last but for a fleeting moment. Anyway. Good climb and a must do!! Aug 21, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
Fun route..We actually tied off a cordelette on the 1st bolt ( boo hiss ) but it allowed the belayer to observe the leader on the headwall. Remember your layback tech, and trust your feet! I found a nice start..clip bolt #1, then move down the ramp a few feet, and climb up just to the right of the first bolt. Maybe mid 5.11...more like a boulder problem, but I would not want to fall off of it w/o a rope attached. Jul 8, 2008
jd79
Arlee, MT
jd79   Arlee, MT
Nice route. Be careful on the belay ledge. Jul 5, 2008
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Maybe I missed the easiest sequence, but I found the upper headwall to be harder than 9+ and a little scary at that. It was hard to commit to the moves to make the 9th clip (2nd bolt on headwall), and there wasn't a good stance or jug to make the clip. I was afraid if I came off before the clip that I'd hit the ledge below the headwall. Your belayer can't see you at this point either.

Nevertheless, a great route with sustained, steep climbing in the lower section, a fun roof, and a committing and pumpy finish.

There are 10 bolts on the route. There isn't a belay bolt at the start, but there is a loop of perlon around a small chockstone that can be used for a belay anchor. Jul 18, 2005
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
Very fun! Thank you Brandon and Darren. Jul 31, 2004
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.9+
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.9+
Fun, thoughtful moves below a small roof band. The last 15 feet are on wonderful stone. A potentially significant concern is that the belayer looses sight of the leader once the leader has passed the roof band. Even double slings at the belay did not abrogate the problem. A small TCR was useful above the roof. Jul 29, 2004
richard magill
  5.9+
richard magill  
  5.9+
Great moderate route - 5.9 sport routes don't get any better than this. Jul 16, 2004
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
  5.9+
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
  5.9+
Anonymous-Thanks. I believe I was the first to lead that "link-up" from Lunchmoney to Contra and the section that the pin is on is above the anchors of Lunchmoney between the Stroh's and Contra ledge systems.

The section of rock that Lunchmoney is on was never climbed before Brandon and Darren's ascent. If it was climbed there was no protection till the roof at about 50 feet up and no evidence of pin scars on the whole route. Any aid climbing would have been about A4 or higher on hooks/heads till the roof and the crux section would take tricky offset nuts or cams or good heads. This scenario is very unlikely at the time that the old pin was placed.

casey May 4, 2004
Chris and Casey: In the Contra route description, I think Darren mentions an optional approach 'pitch' that continues above Lunchmoney, through loose fifth class (where the pin is). This is not recommended, but more of a historical note. Best approach is Mounty. May 4, 2004
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
  5.9+
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
  5.9+
Re: the old pin.

The pin was noticed before Lunchmoney was bolted. We believe that the pin was part of an ascending traverse that passed the base of Stroh's and continued up to the large ramp/ledge at the base of Contra. The pin probably protected the hardest section of climbing at about 5.4 and the rest is third or fourth class. There was also a very old Stroh's beer bottle found at the base of Stroh's (the route), but it is believed that it wasn't used for pro. May 3, 2004
Pneumoped
  5.9+
Pneumoped  
  5.9+
This was a very nice route indeed. I appreciated the variety of climbing in addition to it being sustained. The bolts were nicely placed and in such a way that they did not take the thrill out of leading this climb. Well done!

Although this route is certainly a new bolted sport route, my climbing buddy claims that while he was threading the anchor at the top to lower off, he looked slightly up and to the left and spied an old piton suggesting that a first ascent happened some time long ago. It never ceases to amaze me that no matter where I go I can find clues left from those that were there before.

Speaking of such evidence, there is a lot of trash around the base of both New Capitalist Crag and Capitalist Crag. Mostly broken glass, bullet shells, and shot gun shells. The next time I visit this area, I plan on bringing a couple of bags and picking up some of the more obvious trash. I hope others will consider giving back to our great outdoors in the same way.

Chris Piper May 3, 2004
The chains have been painted and are no longer visible on the approach. Nov 12, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9+
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.9+
Great route. Thoughtful start. Excellent finish. What a find. At least as good as People's Choice. Also, an interesting TR variation (we called Spare Change, 5.9) that takes the face between the cracks on the upper bit. Oct 19, 2002
Edward Jenner
  5.9+
Edward Jenner  
  5.9+
Well, after all the above, I hardly need to add my comments. Obviously this is a fine addition to Clear Creek, thanks to Mr Mabe for putting in the work on this one. One of the best of its grade in the canyon! Of course this may mean that this area starts to see a bit more traffic. I bet there are a few more good lines on this rock that just need a bit of vision and a lot of cleaning.

As a side note, the gear is really well placed on this route, great boling job.

Definitely 3 stars for Clear Creek.

Definitely a bit harder that what I would call a 5.9, but maybe not quite solid 10a. Probably harder than some other 9/10a's in the canyon (e.g. at Highwire). Oct 7, 2002
Russell Oakley
  5.9+
Russell Oakley  
  5.9+
A gorgeous route, highly recommended. It has excellent variety-- edges, a little roof, slab, lieback-- lot's of fun. Nice job, Darren, at spying and equipping an excellent line.

This route definitely deserves three stars!

Solid, thoughtful moves. Oct 6, 2002
Excellent route at its grade. Very enjoyable. Jun 28, 2002
piz
piz  
This route is one of the best 5.9s in the canyon! Must do, a great read, great rock and good fun.

piz :) May 29, 2002
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
  5.9+
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
  5.9+
This is a very good climb. It definitely deserves 3 stars for clear creek and about 2 stars for everywhere. Two sustained sections with the crux on the upper part. Excellent climbing overall. Awesome. May 3, 2002