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Lunchmoney
5.9+,
Sport, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 422
votes
FA: Brandon Patterson and Darren Mabe
Colorado
> Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Capitalist Crag
> Lower Capitalist Crag
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation Bumbling Stock Evil Area Ghost Crag Highlander Skinny Legs Stumbling Block Tetanus Garden Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
Approach as for Upper Capitalist, but instead of going uphill to the crag, go down the broken hill to the southeast. Lunchmoney is located roughly hundred yards upstream from Upper Capitalist Crag. The chains are obvious from this point. There is a belay bolt on the ledge at the start of the climb. Climb up the steep face, pull through weakness in the roof to easy ledge system. The last three clips on the upper wall is the crux on a beautiful smooth flake.
Protection
1 belay bolt on ledge, 9-11 protection bolts, and chains anchors.
[Hide Comment] This is a very good climb. It definitely deserves 3 stars for clear creek and about 2 stars for everywhere. Two sustained sections with the crux on the upper part. Excellent climbing overall. Awesome.
May 3, 2002
[Hide Comment] A gorgeous route, highly recommended. It has excellent variety-- edges, a little roof, slab, lieback-- lot's of fun. Nice job, Darren, at spying and equipping an excellent line.
[Hide Comment] Well, after all the above, I hardly need to add my comments. Obviously this is a fine addition to Clear Creek, thanks to Mr Mabe for putting in the work on this one. One of the best of its grade in the canyon! Of course this may mean that this area starts to see a bit more traffic. I bet there are a few more good lines on this rock that just need a bit of vision and a lot of cleaning.
As a side note, the gear is really well placed on this route, great boling job.
Definitely 3 stars for Clear Creek.
Definitely a bit harder that what I would call a 5.9, but maybe not quite solid 10a. Probably harder than some other 9/10a's in the canyon (e.g. at Highwire).
Oct 7, 2002
[Hide Comment] Great route. Thoughtful start. Excellent finish. What a find. At least as good as People's Choice. Also, an interesting TR variation (we called Spare Change, 5.9) that takes the face between the cracks on the upper bit.
Oct 19, 2002
[Hide Comment] This was a very nice route indeed. I appreciated the variety of climbing in addition to it being sustained. The bolts were nicely placed and in such a way that they did not take the thrill out of leading this climb. Well done!
Although this route is certainly a new bolted sport route, my climbing buddy claims that while he was threading the anchor at the top to lower off, he looked slightly up and to the left and spied an old piton suggesting that a first ascent happened some time long ago. It never ceases to amaze me that no matter where I go I can find clues left from those that were there before.
Speaking of such evidence, there is a lot of trash around the base of both New Capitalist Crag and Capitalist Crag. Mostly broken glass, bullet shells, and shot gun shells. The next time I visit this area, I plan on bringing a couple of bags and picking up some of the more obvious trash. I hope others will consider giving back to our great outdoors in the same way.
The pin was noticed before Lunchmoney was bolted. We believe that the pin was part of an ascending traverse that passed the base of Stroh's and continued up to the large ramp/ledge at the base of Contra. The pin probably protected the hardest section of climbing at about 5.4 and the rest is third or fourth class. There was also a very old Stroh's beer bottle found at the base of Stroh's (the route), but it is believed that it wasn't used for pro.
May 3, 2004
[Hide Comment] Chris and Casey: In the Contra route description, I think Darren mentions an optional approach 'pitch' that continues above Lunchmoney, through loose fifth class (where the pin is). This is not recommended, but more of a historical note. Best approach is Mounty.
May 4, 2004
[Hide Comment] Anonymous-Thanks. I believe I was the first to lead that "link-up" from Lunchmoney to Contra and the section that the pin is on is above the anchors of Lunchmoney between the Stroh's and Contra ledge systems.
The section of rock that Lunchmoney is on was never climbed before Brandon and Darren's ascent. If it was climbed there was no protection till the roof at about 50 feet up and no evidence of pin scars on the whole route. Any aid climbing would have been about A4 or higher on hooks/heads till the roof and the crux section would take tricky offset nuts or cams or good heads. This scenario is very unlikely at the time that the old pin was placed.
[Hide Comment] Fun, thoughtful moves below a small roof band. The last 15 feet are on wonderful stone. A potentially significant concern is that the belayer looses sight of the leader once the leader has passed the roof band. Even double slings at the belay did not abrogate the problem. A small TCR was useful above the roof.
Jul 29, 2004
[Hide Comment] Maybe I missed the easiest sequence, but I found the upper headwall to be harder than 9+ and a little scary at that. It was hard to commit to the moves to make the 9th clip (2nd bolt on headwall), and there wasn't a good stance or jug to make the clip. I was afraid if I came off before the clip that I'd hit the ledge below the headwall. Your belayer can't see you at this point either.
Nevertheless, a great route with sustained, steep climbing in the lower section, a fun roof, and a committing and pumpy finish.
There are 10 bolts on the route. There isn't a belay bolt at the start, but there is a loop of perlon around a small chockstone that can be used for a belay anchor.
Jul 18, 2005
[Hide Comment] Fun route..We actually tied off a cordelette on the 1st bolt ( boo hiss ) but it allowed the belayer to observe the leader on the headwall. Remember your layback tech, and trust your feet! I found a nice start..clip bolt #1, then move down the ramp a few feet, and climb up just to the right of the first bolt. Maybe mid 5.11...more like a boulder problem, but I would not want to fall off of it w/o a rope attached.
Jul 8, 2008
[Hide Comment] Great line. One of the best in the canyon at its grade. But I feel 9- is more fitting for this line. There is only two or three moves even in this grade at the top of the climb in the lay-back crack that last but for a fleeting moment. Anyway. Good climb and a must do!!
Aug 21, 2009
[Hide Comment] Those moves up top never get old! This one gets my vote for the best 5.9 in the canyon. I don't think the moves up top are 5.10 if you get the sequence dialed. Must do!
Mar 23, 2010
[Hide Comment] I found belaying for my partner difficult on this climb. My partner was having a hard time on the upper section. I could not see him and could not distinguish what he was yelling... take, slack, clipping? I think this climb would be better as a two-pitch climb, with the second belay at the bottom of the upper section at the natural break in the climb.
Apr 18, 2010
[Hide Comment] I lead Five Finger Discount before leading Lunchmoney, and I do think Five finger discount required a tad more thinking, commitment above the bolts (last two), and balance.
Jul 29, 2010
[Hide Comment] Tonight I moved the last bolt down and right a couple feet, allowing a secure clipping stance thus minimizing the chance of blowing it and bouncing onto the slab.
Also added was a single belay bolt on the well worn dirt ledge a few feet left of the start of the route. This should help you safely lean out to see your leader make the final moves.
Aug 16, 2010
[Hide Comment] Per a few of the comments for those who are in belief that the belay box restricts view of the top of the climb, utilize the bolt with a clove hitch to allow you to get farther out. My buddy and I skipped the first bolt as you would hit the deck no matter what. That proved no big deal. The climb was great except the rain screwed us over at the flake. Love the rock, the views, and the climb. Definitely a must do!
Aug 2, 2011
[Hide Comment] Great variety on this route! Even though I can lead 5.10, I found this one a serious climb for the leader. There are plenty of bolts, but some areas of sustained moves or where you really want to complete a clip so you can be protected. I wouldn't recommend this route for someone new to leading 5.9, but if you can already lead 5.9, this will be a good challenge.
Jul 19, 2012
[Hide Comment] Feels like the reviews overhyped this route, I thought it was just OK, and the crux (the start of the lieback/fingers up high) has a bad fall, since you'll land on the slab and your belayer can't see you. Also seems a bit greasy there. I wouldn't put a 5.9 leader on this route.
May 8, 2017
[Hide Comment] I agree with previous comments about being careful after the ledge. My belayer could not see or hear me after the ledge. Trying to clip the second clip I was short roped, given slack, foot slipped, and I decked on the ledge. As a beginner, I would think twice before attempting the crux above the ledge.
Jul 24, 2017
[Hide Comment] I would agree with most of the comments. It's a great warm-up for those looking to work on the harder climbs at the crag. I didn't feel that the crux was particularly that sketchy, but I can see how a 5.9 leader would find this climb rather difficult.
May 29, 2018
[Hide Comment] Really a neat climb, but I was freaked out about the "ledge" below the layback from previous reports. I did slip off the rounded layback hold and fell a few clips without consequence, so get up there! The second time up it was a breeze. Thank you to whomever put a bolt anchor for the belayer! We did bring cheap walkie talkies, so I could communicate with my belayer.
I will say this entire area is not good for larger parties as you are mostly belaying from ledges. Worked well for my wife and me.
Sep 10, 2019
[Hide Comment] Glad you found the belay bolts for this and Vitamin N useful, Scott. You're very welcome. Good habit on the ledges and indeed best way to lean out to see the leader on the headwall moves.
Sep 12, 2019
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
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Wheat Ridge, CO
piz :) May 29, 2002
This route definitely deserves three stars!
Solid, thoughtful moves. Oct 6, 2002
As a side note, the gear is really well placed on this route, great boling job.
Definitely 3 stars for Clear Creek.
Definitely a bit harder that what I would call a 5.9, but maybe not quite solid 10a. Probably harder than some other 9/10a's in the canyon (e.g. at Highwire). Oct 7, 2002
Westminster, Colorado
Although this route is certainly a new bolted sport route, my climbing buddy claims that while he was threading the anchor at the top to lower off, he looked slightly up and to the left and spied an old piton suggesting that a first ascent happened some time long ago. It never ceases to amaze me that no matter where I go I can find clues left from those that were there before.
Speaking of such evidence, there is a lot of trash around the base of both New Capitalist Crag and Capitalist Crag. Mostly broken glass, bullet shells, and shot gun shells. The next time I visit this area, I plan on bringing a couple of bags and picking up some of the more obvious trash. I hope others will consider giving back to our great outdoors in the same way.
Chris Piper May 3, 2004
Wheat Ridge, CO
The pin was noticed before Lunchmoney was bolted. We believe that the pin was part of an ascending traverse that passed the base of Stroh's and continued up to the large ramp/ledge at the base of Contra. The pin probably protected the hardest section of climbing at about 5.4 and the rest is third or fourth class. There was also a very old Stroh's beer bottle found at the base of Stroh's (the route), but it is believed that it wasn't used for pro. May 3, 2004
Wheat Ridge, CO
The section of rock that Lunchmoney is on was never climbed before Brandon and Darren's ascent. If it was climbed there was no protection till the roof at about 50 feet up and no evidence of pin scars on the whole route. Any aid climbing would have been about A4 or higher on hooks/heads till the roof and the crux section would take tricky offset nuts or cams or good heads. This scenario is very unlikely at the time that the old pin was placed.
casey May 4, 2004
Lakewood, CO
Longmont, CO
Boulder, CO
Nevertheless, a great route with sustained, steep climbing in the lower section, a fun roof, and a committing and pumpy finish.
There are 10 bolts on the route. There isn't a belay bolt at the start, but there is a loop of perlon around a small chockstone that can be used for a belay anchor. Jul 18, 2005
Arlee, MT
Denver, CO.
Golden, CO
Lakewood, CO
Denver, CO
Northglenn, CO
Boulder, CO
Also added was a single belay bolt on the well worn dirt ledge a few feet left of the start of the route. This should help you safely lean out to see your leader make the final moves. Aug 16, 2010
Castlegar
This route was exceptional. The beginning is sustained 5.7 or so and the bolts are well placed.
It was pumpy in parts, techy in parts, and all around entertaining. Even the beginner in our group had a great time on the lower section.
Do this route if you can get a chance!!! Oct 6, 2011
Colorado
Hudson, WI
Morrison CO
I will say this entire area is not good for larger parties as you are mostly belaying from ledges. Worked well for my wife and me. Sep 10, 2019