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Routes in C. Middle and West Walls

Back on Track T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Belay Brothers Bounce Back, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blunt Arete to Exit T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Buffalo Soldier S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Offwidth Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Pirates S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Please Pick Up Your Trash T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Small Axe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Three Little Birds S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Adam Huxley
Page Views: 3,168 total, 96/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Mar 23, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a fun route. I don't often think sport routes are "classic", but it is rated so in the guidebook, and I agree. It is fun pulling the small roof at the start. This is the crux. The holds are good here. Above you mostly climb a thin crack. You could place small cams if you wanted, between bolts, but they are not necessary. There are face holds to be found as well. This is a really fun climb.

Location

This route is the furthest right sport route at the crag. There is a fallen tree right at the start which is off the trail in front of the climb. Descend from the anchor at the top.

Protection

7 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
5th bolt is falling out - the nut may just need to be tightened, but the bolt is spinning pretty badly, and the nut can be turned by hand. Pretty unsafe for right now - if someone with a tool or drill is heading that way any time soon, please address. Jul 7, 2017
One of, if not the best route at this crag, the roof has some fun moves on it, and it's well-bolted. After that, it's some fun, crimpy moves until the last 10-15 feet of the climb when it turns into 5.6 until the anchors. Overall, it's an awesome route! Nov 10, 2016
Tombo
Boulder
  5.8
Tombo   Boulder
  5.8
I had the beta for the roof, so it was pretty straightforward, probably 5.9 if you read it wrong. The upper slab is a blast, the bolt spacing helped the fun factor. Jul 4, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
I did this route for the second time, and it is still fun. I did not find the flexing flakes Leo talks about. It is certainly a route you should do if visiting the area. May 11, 2015
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.8+
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.8+
Be careful using some of the thinner flakes. They flex and make it feel like too much outward pressure with provide air time. One at the lip readily wiggles. May 1, 2015
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
  5.9+
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
  5.9+
Really nice line with a fun crux. This route will also go on gear. A 0.75 to protect the crux and a few nuts and small cams will work above. Nice job, Adam. Apr 12, 2015
A. Bandos
Broomfield
 
A. Bandos   Broomfield
 
Great climb. I love how the though provoking slab above is continuous and not grid bolted. Bolted well, keeps it fun. Apr 5, 2015