Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Adam Huxley
Page Views: 3,839 total · 83/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Mar 23, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is a fun route. I don't often think sport routes are "classic", but it is rated so in the guidebook, and I agree. It is fun pulling the small roof at the start. This is the crux. The holds are good here. Above you mostly climb a thin crack. You could place small cams if you wanted, between bolts, but they are not necessary. There are face holds to be found as well. This is a really fun climb.


This route is the furthest right sport route at the crag. There is a fallen tree right at the start which is off the trail in front of the climb. Descend from the anchor at the top.


7 bolts to a two bolt anchor.


A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
Great climb. I love how the though provoking slab above is continuous and not grid bolted. Bolted well, keeps it fun. Apr 5, 2015
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
Really nice line with a fun crux. This route will also go on gear. A 0.75 to protect the crux and a few nuts and small cams will work above. Nice job, Adam. Apr 12, 2015
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Be careful using some of the thinner flakes. They flex and make it feel like too much outward pressure with provide air time. One at the lip readily wiggles. May 1, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
I did this route for the second time, and it is still fun. I did not find the flexing flakes Leo talks about. It is certainly a route you should do if visiting the area. May 11, 2015
Tombo   Boulder
I had the beta for the roof, so it was pretty straightforward, probably 5.9 if you read it wrong. The upper slab is a blast, the bolt spacing helped the fun factor. Jul 4, 2016
One of, if not the best route at this crag, the roof has some fun moves on it, and it's well-bolted. After that, it's some fun, crimpy moves until the last 10-15 feet of the climb when it turns into 5.6 until the anchors. Overall, it's an awesome route! Nov 10, 2016
5th bolt is falling out - the nut may just need to be tightened, but the bolt is spinning pretty badly, and the nut can be turned by hand. Pretty unsafe for right now - if someone with a tool or drill is heading that way any time soon, please address. Jul 7, 2017
Trace Teboda
Lakewood, CO
Trace Teboda   Lakewood, CO
Led this route yesterday (6/27/18) and had a blast. This is a great climb with a fun start and slabby middle. To my surprise, Adam Huxley and Chuck Fitch were climbing "Old Pirates" right next to us! It was a honor to meet them. They answered all our questions and were very nice. They explained to us how they came up with the route names (Bob Marley) and some fun back stories. It was one of my favorite days climbing, and I will never forget the experience. Jun 28, 2018