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Greg Kuchyt > Comments
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Mar 23, 2024
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To second Travis' comments and for explicit clarity in this thread (i.e. to prevent people from wandering a…
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Aug 10, 2019
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Originally two bolts and two pins. The two pins were garbage after a three decades, one was replaced with a…
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May 7, 2019
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After a lot of deliberation the decision was made to make this a reasonably protected moderate mixed route.…
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Aug 20, 2018
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It seems things have changed here once again. For reference, this map has been rotated about 90 degrees clo…
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Aug 2, 2018
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Recently re-bolted after discussing with Tom a couple years ago. There is now an independent anchor with pi…
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Jul 9, 2018
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Down from the ledge you launch off of for Diagnol? ~30 ft of scrambling then a step left onto a bench and s…
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Jun 24, 2018
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The pin was nominal protection and given the likelihood of a ground fall if someone ever did take a fall on…
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Jun 17, 2018
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While similar in grade to P1 of The Deep End, this route is about subtle technique combined with power. I f…
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Jun 16, 2018
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If one wishes to solo the 4th class slab, a #2 and/or #3 can be used to setup an anchor on the ledge for th…
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Mar 27, 2018
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Anthony, the route details are accurate and you'll probably want gear. A #1 before the roof and then some f…
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Oct 12, 2017
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The block Billy refers to is no longer present. It took some persuading with a pry bar but most of it came…
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Aug 13, 2017
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Single rack to 3" works, but a double 3" might be helpful at the top if like me you have small ha…
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Jun 25, 2017
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After a couple failed attempts to take the crack on directly, I revisited this recently and opened my eyes…
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May 27, 2017
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The anchor is now a glue-in inline chainset up and right of where the old anchor used to be.…
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May 12, 2017
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The top anchor was replaced with a slightly longer stainless set, that puts the rap rings over the lip so t…
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Oct 29, 2016
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Actually a good bit of technical climbing on the upper face that is split into three different boulder prob…
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Oct 16, 2016
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Derek is pretty spot on in all points. My two-cents, this is the hardest of the three 12b routes in the boo…
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Oct 2, 2016
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The 5th bolt has been replaced with a glue-in.
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Sep 28, 2016
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What happened at the first bolt?
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Sep 17, 2016
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Great route that deserves more attention. Two finger size pieces are good for the top, as the placement…
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Sep 14, 2016
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Perhaps a better way to use this as a warm-up is to link into Afro Samurai at the bulge. It's an easy t…
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Sep 14, 2016
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Just for clarity, Zak's comment about not an easy TR is prior to a shared anchor being installed with P…
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Sep 8, 2016
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So this isn't an FA then? If not, who is the FA team and date?
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Sep 6, 2016
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My guess, just checked to see if it fit (since visibly the standard 9/16" nut is a different outer dia…
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Sep 5, 2016
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Agreed with Derek, the first pitch is burly without much character. I think it should be possible to start…
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Aug 19, 2016
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You can get by with just a 3 on this.
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Aug 19, 2016
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After a final evaluation I removed the last bolt entirely but re-positioned the 4th bolt a few meters lower…
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Aug 17, 2016
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I think this is actually the route Say Goodnight Dick. What's Up Doc? is to the left of the arete.
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Aug 10, 2016
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Before climbing this route I thought the comments regarding the soft ratings were a bit outlandish, but hav…
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Aug 9, 2016
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The most reputable of the rolled aluminum rings are rated at 14kN MBS, hopefully this single one is from a…
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Aug 2, 2016
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This is likely a route best for a confident 5.10 leader. I used a half dozen pieces from fingers up to a #3.
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Jul 30, 2016
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Save a .5 BD sized piece for the end of the crack, the lack of a bolt assumes you have good gear at the end…
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Jul 26, 2016
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The Bourdon guide's gear beta for this is not really accurate. You only need some RPs and a couple fing…
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Jul 17, 2016
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I feel like this route and Sticks and Stones are akin to Discombobulated and Legacy in the New River Gorge.…
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Jul 17, 2016
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The crux is protected by an acceptable small wire and cam (TCUs and C3s helpful) that can be equalized. Use…
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Jun 3, 2016
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The anchor is about 20 ft down and left of the Chimp Crimp anchor in an alcove/left-facing corner.
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