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Routes in Cantilever Rock

Walk the Plank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Adam Wilson 06/20/2003
Page Views: 509 total · 30/month
Shared By: doliver on Aug 29, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

climb up the steep face on the right side of the cantilever. Pulls some balancy mantle move up onto the ledge on the right of the massive balance fin of rock (the cantilever). Climb up on top of the cantilever and walk out and kiss the end then fire out a well protected roof (5.8) right above the main body of the cantilever. The offwidth on the right corner has also been climbed at 5.8 and accessed by scrambling up the back side of the cantilever accessed on the left.

Location

the Steep face right below the cantilever, scramble up to the higher ledge then fire out the overhanging face on great holds directly beneath the cantilever.

Protection

single rack to 4" make sure you place a piece on the ledge to protect the second for the crux

Photos

doliver
 
doliver  
 
Ive changed the FA info to match what little i can find on rockclimbing.com


Here is a link to the original route description:
rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor… Sep 8, 2016
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
So this isn't an FA then? If not, who is the FA team and date? Sep 8, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
So I brought this up at the last CRAG meeting and there seemed to be total support. There is no formal reason we can think of that would inhibit climbing in this area. If it becomes a problem I'll update but as of now it seems good to go. Cheers! Sep 8, 2016
doliver
 
doliver  
 
Right on thanks Kris! Sep 6, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
Hey guys,

I'll bring this up at the CRAG meeting tonight and see what folks think. I think you both raise good points but I'll see what the braintrust comes up with.

-Kris Sep 6, 2016
doliver
 
doliver  
 
saw a post on rockclimbing.com that mentions the 5.8 variation to this climb if you just scramble up on the left side of the cantilever. Figured this route probably had been climbed as its pretty obvious. based on all the research ive found cantilever rock doesn't appear to be in the protected alpine zone of Mansfield. UVM owns the upper ridge line according to this 2002 study I found but cantilever rock is below tree line and out of this zone. There wasn't any alpine tundra around this feature and its already being significantly impacted by countless tourist. If anyone has better info about where the alpine zone specifically starts and where climbing isn't allowed please feel free to post but as far as I can tell Cantilever is open to climbing. Here's a photo of the protected zone (blue, highlighted) i found with cantilever (red) outside it:

Aug 30, 2016
DRusso  
This route was climbed previously around the same time that the route was bolted to the left of the feature.

Also it should be known that rock climbing in the alpine zone on Mountain Mansfield is still not allowed. There are fragile alpine plants that only exist in a few areas in the state including the summit of Mansfield.

Might want to leave this one off of mountainproject. Others have clearly broken the rules and climbed here, but encouraging more to do so is a detriment to the hard work Crag VT has put in to provide access to the climbing areas we already have. Aug 30, 2016