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Routes in Upper Tier - Right End

Bungasana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chockstone (aka:Captain's Crack) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dr. Dias T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Featherweight Champion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hippie With a Hand Grenade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mal Bouche T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Dylan Oliver, September 22, 2016
Page Views: 228 total, 15/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Sep 22, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

An awesome pitch and one that should clean up to be a really popular route. We were pretty torn on the grade as the roof is definitely hard to grade. Seemed about as hard as Cat's Ass or Afro Samurai which are both 11d.

Clip a high bolt after climbing a flake for 20 ft. Runout but it's 5.5 moves with jugs. Currently there is a botched bolt so clip the higher of the two. Move up and left to surmount a stance below a face with two very different cruxes to navigate before reaching another stance below the roof. Clip the fixed draw and get ready for the business. Tackle the short but powerful roof and lip above and enjoy the view! 2-bolt anchor.

As always with my new routes I'm wavering on the grade. Input always helpful!

Location

Right of Bungassana and left of Birch Tree Corner. Starts at a massive flake below a high bolt. 7 bolts.

Protection

Sport, fixed draw at the roof so get on it!

Photos

Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
 
It just started spinning (bolt and nut together) while tightening it. A true spinner.

As for why, it appears that something may have been wrong with my drill bit or drill. When I spun it on the ground afterward it the bit seemed to have some play in it as if it was slightly bent. Sep 28, 2016
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
What happened at the first bolt? Sep 28, 2016