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Routes in Quartz Crack Face

Diagonal, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagonal: Left Finish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagonal: Right Finish, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flight of the Manatee S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Quartz Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Travis Peckham, Kristofer Fiore (May 5, 2017)
Page Views: 546 total, 87/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on May 13, 2017
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

A climb that many saw for years but nobody felt like drawing the stares enough to bolt it. Well, we did and it was worth it! Pitch 2 was previously toproped by Nate Vince and Hope Chipman.

P1: Pad up the easy slab without gear for 30 or so feet to a grassy ledge. Step left and up on quartz to a bolt and good edges. Once under the small roof, traverse right and pull up on good holds. Make a wild move out left above the void and pull up to a stance below the second roof. Gain the edge under the roof and make a second wild traverse to the right before clipping one final bolt (clip long) and mantle up to a ring-bolt anchor. (5.10a)

P2: Clip a bolt and rock up and right to the slab. Work up the slab to the steep face with great jugs to and a tricky mantle. Navigate a puzzling crux sequence to a decent shake and a second puzzling crux. One final short thin section guards the mantle and a ring-bolt anchor. (5.10b/c)

*New beta on P2 seems to have brought the grade down to 10b but we'll see what repeat attempts think*

Location

150 feet right of Quartz Crack. Same start as the winter route Pub Crawl and the lesser-known summer route Pube Crawl. The excellent light-colored slab is your indicator.

Protection

Well-spaced bolts for just the right amount of spice. Bring a few runners for rope drag in the roof section of P1.

Photos

Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
 
Thanks Luca! We definitely wanted to bolt it similar to other notch routes with just enough space to make it exciting but not dangerous. Glad to hear you liked it. May 22, 2017
Luca Keushguerian
RRG
  5.10c
Luca Keushguerian   RRG
  5.10c
Climbed it on the 17th with Jon Page. Once the 1st pitch gets a little cleaner it should become a classic for the Notch! A super quality route! Also I found the bolting to be appropriate, the top of p2 was exciting, but not run-out. If you're familiar to Notch climbing it should be a breeze! May 19, 2017