Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Travis Peckham, Kristofer Fiore (May 5, 2017)
Page Views: 1,149 total · 51/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on May 13, 2017
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A climb that many saw for years but nobody felt like drawing the stares enough to bolt it. Well, we did and it was worth it! Pitch 2 was previously toproped by Nate Vince and Hope Chipman.

P1: Pad up the easy slab without gear for 30 or so feet to a grassy ledge. Step left and up on quartz to a bolt and good edges. Once under the small roof, traverse right and up to a wild move left above the void and pull up to a stance below the second roof. Gain the edge under the roof and make a second wild traverse to the right before clipping one final bolt and up to a ring-bolt anchor. (5.10a)

P2: Clip a bolt and rock up and right to the slab. Work up the slab to the steep face with great jugs above. Navigate a tricku crux sequence to a decent shake and a second puzzling crux then continue up to a ring-bolt anchor. (5.10b/c)

*New beta on P2 seems to have brought the grade down to 10b but we'll see what repeat attempts think*

Location

150 feet right of Quartz Crack. Same start as the winter route Pub Crawl and the lesser-known summer route Pube Crawl. The excellent light-colored slab is your indicator.

Protection

Well-spaced bolts for just the right amount of spice. Bring a few runners for rope drag in the roof section of P1.

Photos

Luca Keushguerian
Maine
  5.10c
Luca Keushguerian   Maine
  5.10c
Climbed it on the 17th with Jon Page. Once the 1st pitch gets a little cleaner it should become a classic for the Notch! A super quality route! Also I found the bolting to be appropriate, the top of p2 was exciting, but not run-out. If you're familiar to Notch climbing it should be a breeze! May 19, 2017
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
  5.10b/c
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
  5.10b/c
Thanks Luca! We definitely wanted to bolt it similar to other notch routes with just enough space to make it exciting but not dangerous. Glad to hear you liked it. May 22, 2017
Derek Doucet  
 
Hmmm. Cool position, but the actual movement just seemed like a stacked collection of awkward traverses and mantles to me. It does weave a fairly moderate way through some deceptively steep terrain though, and is worthwhile for that reason alone. P1 feels reminiscent of a Gunks route as it swerves around the looming bulges and roofs without ever actually pulling any of them. I didn’t find any spice. It seemed very reasonably bolted. Jun 16, 2018
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.10
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.10
If one wishes to solo the 4th class slab, a #2 and/or #3 can be used to setup an anchor on the ledge for the belayer via a clove hitch to set them back from the vegetation. It's easy to grab packs on the way back to the ground. Jun 16, 2018