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Routes in Ronin's Corner

Astral Travels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream Believer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desperado T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dreams of Passion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Free Spirit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
MCM T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Magical Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ridge Runner T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sammy's Frog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Dancing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Weeniedancing T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wobbler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 142 total, 1/month
Shared By: Alpine Carl on Jun 3, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

The crux is, well, the crux could be a lot of places. it could be in the first third, where the the thinnest moves are, or it could be in the middle, where you literally palm the ridge for what feels like forever, or it could be the top-out mantle that occurs 15 feet above, and to the left of the last bolt.... I'll go with the mantle. This can be a spooky route for a 5.8 leader, and not a pretty one to fall on.

Location

This route is the farthest left of Ronin's routes, and ascends the left side of the smooth ridge/arete (this is the first feature you'll see approaching along the trail from the west).

Protection

One or two small TCU's can be slotted behind a flake before reaching the first bolt. Then just start clipping.

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Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
The Bourdon guide's gear beta for this is not really accurate. You only need some RPs and a couple finger/tips sized cams (doubled-up, because why not?) for the obvious crack before the first bolt. The protection is reasonable for a confident 5.9 climber and I felt the bolt placements were pretty right on. If you're not a strong friction climber you'll likely wish there was closer pro at the top and a fall would likely be unpleasant. Jul 26, 2016
Dru
  5.8 R
Dru  
  5.8 R
If you start to the right of the arete, you can get a couple RPs or micronuts in from the ledge before moving left around the arete. Then you get a good Tricam or TCU before the bolt. From there, three bolts to the top; sustained at the grade but no hard moves. Nov 20, 2014
Nick Wilder
The Bubble
 
Nick Wilder   The Bubble  
 
I should have no problem at this grade, but I retreated after placing the first (and only possible) piece of gear 10' up and still 10' from the first bolt. TR'd it and was glad I didn't lead it - the top would also be scary. Really fun route though! Jul 31, 2012
Mark van Eijk
  5.9
Mark van Eijk  
  5.9
very sustained technical edges and slab made this climb feel stiff (and rewarding!) for the grade. Bolt spacing seems bold but easily top-roped. Great practice for improving confidence in your feet. Mar 7, 2011