Avg: 3.4 from 536 votes
|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Baldwin & Sinclair '62, FFA: Woodsworth & Lasserre '63|
|Page Views:||62,130 total · 361/month|
|Shared By:||ScottH on Sep 9, 2006|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
P1. Begin up a low-angle slab to a horizontal break with a tree. Make a few face moves to a left-angling crack system and follow it up before making a slightly downward traverse across a small face as the cracks end. Follow a second crack system to an anchor on a ledge. 5.7, 55m.
P2. Climb a short distance above the ledge and make a slabby traverse across the face to the left. This unprotected pitch is hardest at the beginning, then eases before reaching an anchor on a good ledge. 5.6, 15 m.
P3. Layback and smear your way up the corner, making a move over a small step partway up. End at a semi-hanging belay. 5.8, 45 m.
P4. Continue up the obvious corner. Ignore the incipient calf cramp. 5.8, 50m.
P5. The climbing eases somewhat as the angle of the dihedral lessens. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.7, 50 m.
P6. The crack in the dihedral becomes a small seam and dissappears just as the angle of the wall becomes most forgiving. Smear and stem your way up to Broadway, overcoming a tricky bulge onto the ledge. The gear on this pitch is notably small and fairly run-out. The final move is easy to protect. 5.8, 40m.
To descend: Continue up the Chief to more adventure, traverse Broadway ledge to the south to walk off, take the 3rd class slab descent, or, in a fix, rap the route (double ropes required).