Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Baldwin & Sinclair '62, FFA: Woodsworth & Lasserre '63
Page Views: 54,956 total · 351/month
Shared By: ScottH on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Diedre climbs a small right facing dihedral on the right side of the central slab. Over 100m of consistent laybacking on nicely textured rock make this climb very popular; arrive early or be prepared to join a line.

P1. Begin up a low-angle slab to a horizontal break with a tree. Make a few face moves to a left-angling crack system and follow it up before making a slightly downward traverse across a small face as the cracks end. Follow a second crack system to an anchor on a ledge. 5.7, 55m.

P2. Climb a short distance above the ledge and make a slabby traverse across the face to the left. This unprotected pitch is hardest at the beginning, then eases before reaching an anchor on a good ledge. 5.6, 15 m.

P3. Layback and smear your way up the corner, making a move over a small step partway up. End at a semi-hanging belay. 5.8, 45 m.

P4. Continue up the obvious corner. Ignore the incipient calf cramp. 5.8, 50m.

P5. The climbing eases somewhat as the angle of the dihedral lessens. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.7, 50 m.

P6. The crack in the dihedral becomes a small seam and dissappears just as the angle of the wall becomes most forgiving. Smear and stem your way up to Broadway, overcoming a tricky bulge onto the ledge. The gear on this pitch is notably small and fairly run-out. The final move is easy to protect. 5.8, 40m.

Location

Follow the trail from the parking lot past the toilet. Head left until reaching a 3rd class gully heading up and right. Climb the gully, then continue up the subsequent ledge system to the right, climbing a 3rd class step to a final ledge system which leads up and right to the low angle slabs of the south apron.

To descend: Continue up the Chief to more adventure, traverse Broadway ledge to the south to walk off, take the 3rd class slab descent, or, in a fix, rap the route (double ropes required).

Protection

Gear to 2", emphasizing stoppers and small cams. Bring nothing larger than a #2 camalot. If you want to sew the route up, doubles of small to mid-size stoppers and a few doubles of cams below 0.75 will serve you well. A pink tri-cam works well in a flaring scar on the final pitch. All belays are bolted.

Photos