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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Baldwin & Sinclair '62, FFA: Woodsworth & Lasserre '63
Page Views: 49,643 total · 336/month
Shared By: ScottH on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Diedre climbs a small right facing dihedral on the right side of the central slab. Over 100m of consistent laybacking on nicely textured rock make this climb very popular; arrive early or be prepared to join a line.

P1. Begin up a low-angle slab to a horizontal break with a tree. Make a few face moves to a left-angling crack system and follow it up before making a slightly downward traverse across a small face as the cracks end. Follow a second crack system to an anchor on a ledge. 5.7, 55m.

P2. Climb a short distance above the ledge and make a slabby traverse across the face to the left. This unprotected pitch is hardest at the beginning, then eases before reaching an anchor on a good ledge. 5.6, 15 m.

P3. Layback and smear your way up the corner, making a move over a small step partway up. End at a semi-hanging belay. 5.8, 45 m.

P4. Continue up the obvious corner. Ignore the incipient calf cramp. 5.8, 50m.

P5. The climbing eases somewhat as the angle of the dihedral lessens. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.7, 50 m.

P6. The crack in the dihedral becomes a small seam and dissappears just as the angle of the wall becomes most forgiving. Smear and stem your way up to Broadway, overcoming a tricky bulge onto the ledge. The gear on this pitch is notably small and fairly run-out. The final move is easy to protect. 5.8, 40m.

Location

Follow the trail from the parking lot past the toilet. Head left until reaching a 3rd class gully heading up and right. Climb the gully, then continue up the subsequent ledge system to the right, climbing a 3rd class step to a final ledge system which leads up and right to the low angle slabs of the south apron.

To descend: Continue up the Chief to more adventure, traverse Broadway ledge to the south to walk off, take the 3rd class slab descent, or, in a fix, rap the route (double ropes required).

Protection

Gear to 2", emphasizing stoppers and small cams. Bring nothing larger than a #2 camalot. If you want to sew the route up, doubles of small to mid-size stoppers and a few doubles of cams below 0.75 will serve you well. A pink tri-cam works well in a flaring scar on the final pitch. All belays are bolted.
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
 
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
 
One can link Pitches 2 and 3 (as they are described here) with a 60m rope. May 10, 2007
BenCooper
  5.7
BenCooper  
  5.7
Diedre also makes a good first simul-climb. The rating is easy, the gear, aside from the runout slab portions, is plentiful and solid. And it'll get you past the multitude of parties that commonly choke the route's belay bolts. May 13, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
This is a good climb, but as of 2017, unless you're willing to do a 6am start on it, it's probably not worth the hassle.

We spent all of July in the area, and by 7am, there were never less than 3 parties on the route as we drove by. The day we did it, there were 16 people on it by 9am thanks to a party of 9 (yes, a party of 9) that showed up right after us.

If you're confident, link 1 and 2, as there's only 1 piece of gear on pitch 2 anyway. Jun 27, 2007
JSH

  5.6
JSH    
  5.6
Really fun as a start to Ultimate Everything. We linked p1+p2, p3+p4, and p5+p6, but note pitch lengths as so nicely described above: this involves a fair amount of simulclimbing, at 5.8 (though it's quite soft at this grade). Bring as many finger-sized cams as you want, or perhaps a double set of stoppers - it eats pro! Sep 2, 2007
Conor Raney
Pinedale, WY
Conor Raney   Pinedale, WY
was a great climb!!! loved it! Oct 19, 2009
Hoag Hoag
Littleton, CO
  5.8 PG13
Hoag Hoag   Littleton, CO
  5.8 PG13
An excellent route if you're looking to be introduced to The Chief.

My wife and I had only one day in Squamish and chose Diedre. It was a good choice to say the least.

Definitely link pitches 2 and 3 to save time. The crack is likely wet most of the time but, if you can keep your shoes dry, it's still very climbable and enjoyable.

The last pitch is super runout until the final few moves. Find a piton in a seem to your right, protect below it with a BD #2 and make a bouldery move over the ledge to the trees.

The exit through trees is beautiful. Jun 8, 2011
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.8
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.8
Fun route though but, often busy. If it is, there are a ton of other fantastic options right there. Pretty low angle the whole way, bring some smaller gear for the corner, plenty of nuts. Apr 23, 2012
EMT
EMT  
If this is 5.8...Nutcracker must be 5.10. Nothing harder than 5.6 on this route. Oct 10, 2012
aaronfm  
I tried to link pitches 5-6 with a (new) 70m rope and came up ~10m short, so it seems some simul-climbing is necessary even with a 70. Jun 25, 2014
rl23455
Portland, OR
rl23455   Portland, OR
one thing I learned with climbing at Squamish(a couple of dozen routes), it appears local climbers take less gear and so that is why the pitches seem short.

It was interesting to note that the only good placements on Dierdre was in old pin scars.

We climbed it on the weekday and saw no one else! Feb 29, 2016
Ryan Lynne
  5.8
Ryan Lynne  
  5.8
I highly recommend linking P3 and P4 for an unforgettable monster 75 meter pitch. You will most likely want double up on the cams and you will have too simul climb for a few meters.

Just some notes on how long the link ups are as the route description is a bit off:

P1 & P2: ~65 meters
P3: ~40 meters
P4: ~35 meters
P5 & P6: ~75 meters Jun 1, 2016
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
Though the route is on the easy side of 5.8, the opening 5.7 friction slab runouts can surprise those new to friction slab. Also, be sure to follow the description and traverse down and left in the 2nd half of P1 (to avoid 5.9 slab). Aug 8, 2016
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.7
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.7
Before climbing this route I thought the comments regarding the soft ratings were a bit outlandish, but having done the route I feel like each pitch is one to two number grades off.

Despite the Top 100 status, my personal opinion is if you can confidently climb 5.9 then avoid the crowds, climb Snake, and don't worry about missing Diedre. I thought Snake was a significantly better route (minus the start and finish) that gave you similar climbing but with each pitch having a distinct character. That said, I don't see Snake as the next step from Diedre. I remember being happy that 5.9 wasn't my lead limit on the crux pitch of Snake.

If doing Diedre and not comfortable running things out, TCUs or C3s would not go unappreciated on the last few pitches. Aug 10, 2016
Svvenson
  5.8 PG13
Svvenson  
  5.8 PG13
Got on it because of all the hype, felt that it was just "good", not great. I don't climb on a lot of granite and definitely found the run-outs to be pretty intimidating. I was talking with another party from the Midwest region at the base of p3 who was also pretty spooked - I think it's easy to dismiss a 40ft granite runout if you regularly climb on granite, but my girlfriend saw the easy rating and brought her too-large "all day" shoes and was slipping quite a bit when the route came into the sun. A good pair of slab shoes (and some slab skills) would definitely make this a lot more enjoyable. Having said that, I'm glad I did it and spent a good chunk of the rest of the trip seeking out slabs after discovering my utter lack of slab technique.

Red & Green Black Diamond C3s were both really nice to have (both were basically the sum of my pro on the final pitch along with a pink tri-cam), as were off-set cams. Definitely take a #2 to protect the last move - it felt a lot harder than 5.8 after baking in the sun for hours while being stuck & dehydrated behind all the other parties. Sep 1, 2016
Josh A
vancouver, british columbia
  5.8 PG13
Josh A   vancouver, british columbia
  5.8 PG13
Tried it after a night of rain while it was still wet. Don't recommend that. Wet slab was of course precarious.. laybacking still worked decently.. but overall not ideal. Oct 3, 2016
If you have a 70m rope, do yourselves (and others no doubt waiting behind you) a favour and link from the start of the climb to the base of the layback pitches in one long (though very easy), rope-stretching pitch. A few feet of simul-climbing may be required, but the terrain is relaxed and it will save time.

Otherwise, it's as classic as you've heard and doubly good if you can hop on it without too many parties on it. May 31, 2018

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