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> Stawamus Chief
> Apron
South Apron Rock Climbing
Routes in South Apron
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Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slab Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 370 ft | 113 m |
| GPS: |
49.68635, -123.1474 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 660 total · 28/month | |
| Shared By: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Aug 10, 2024 | |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The South Apron is very low-angle slab containing variety of friction climbs that go around patches of trees.
Getting There
From the parking lot, walk the gravel trail past the outhouse and immediately up a climber's trail into the forest. Follow this trail past a switchback until you reach the rock at a fork (this is the start of Read Between the Lines). Take a right and scramble up a V-shaped groove until reaching a ledge with trees, continue past the base of Born Again, then scramble up through trees to another ledge and the start of Diedre, the left-most route in this sub-area.
Classic Climbing Routes at South Apron
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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